Issue: June 2002
Words and photos by
Shirley Hayes
I've rarely been known to be lost for words, in fact I've heard it said on more than one occasion that I could talk underwater with a mouthful of marbles - but when I first walked down on to the 80-Mile Beach at sunset, I was speechless. The view was simply stunning. It was low tide and the deeply patterned sand flats seemed to stretch forever into the distance. The sun hung low in the sky like a huge fireball, its fiery colour reflecting orange and red in the glassy surface of the wet sand. There were people everywhere, some collecting shells, others strolling along the beach, children playing or couples just simply standing looking out at the ocean and soaking up the magic of the moment.
We were camped at The Eighty-Mile Beach Caravan Park, situated 245km north of Port Hedland or 365km south of Broome. There is not much in the way of settlement in this remote part of Western Australia and the park, which has now become like a small village, is a very comfortable place to break the long, sometimes boring, journey from Port Hedland to Broome. Originally part of Wallal Downs Station, the park has over 150 shady sites most of them only 200m from the foreshores of the Indian Ocean.
Each day for one hour before and two hours after high tide the beach comes alive with fishermen. The scene reminded me very much of the 'picket-fence' line of anglers so often seen on the beaches of Queensland's Fraser Island. Depending on the time of year, there's a huge variety of fish caught along this stretch of coast, including salmon, tailor, whiting and bream. Threadfin salmon were running hot when we were at 80-Mile Beach in July and a few tailor were also being hooked. Judging by the rapt expressions on most of the fishermen's faces I don't think many of them would have minded if they'd had a rock tied to the end of their lines, they were happy just being there.
In the months of June through to October, humpback whales are often seen as they migrate to their breeding grounds each year. Pods of dolphins also regularly swim past, frolicking in the water only a few metres from the shore. Between October and April turtles come ashore to lay their eggs on or at the base of the sand dunes. Beach driving is very restricted at this time of the year to protect both the breeding turtles and the fragile dunes.
Beach driving is popular at 80-Mile Beach, particularly with fishermen who want to escape the more crowded fishing areas within walking distance of the campground. The fishing is said to be excellent at a sandy beach some 20km north of the park. Extreme care should be taken when travelling on the beach here, especially when driving close to the water. The sand can become dangerously soft, particularly on a fast-rising tide. There have been quite a few vehicles come to grief along this stretch of coastline by becoming stuck in the sand. Most 4WD drivers would know to reduce tyre pressure to around 15-psi for all sand driving and to plan trips for an out-going tide when the sand is packed firm and much less hazardous.
Swimming is also popular along the 80-Mile Beach and we saw quite a few people, especially children playing in the clear, unpolluted water of the Indian Ocean. I was a bit more wary however, and decided against a swim after I saw no less than three large sea snakes swimming in the waves close to shore. Sea snakes are said to be among the worlds' most venomous reptiles and quite aggressive to boot! The beach was also littered with bluebottles, which had been washed up in some pretty rough weather. I was not aware of any swimmers being bitten or stung during my three-day stay at the beach but I still stand by my decision to remain a wimp and stay out of the water!
Shell collecting is a daily ritual on the beach at low tide. Unlike many of the beaches in Western Australia, which have now been given national park status, there is no restriction on collecting shells at 80-Mile Beach. The variety of shape, size and colours of the shells found here is really quite amazing, especially first thing in the morning when the beach is pristine clean.
The 80-Mile Beach is also a world-renowned wetland for migratory shore birds. Approximately half a million birds from 20 different species of waders arrive from their breeding grounds in the Arctic Circle, and spend the entire northern winter feeding and resting on the beach and the dunes at 80-Mile Beach. The Bar-tailed Godwit, Red-necked Stint, Eastern Curlew, Great Knot, Greater Sand Plover and the Curlew Sandpiper are just a few of the shorebirds which migrate to Australia. The birds are said to fly at several thousand metres and average about 70km an hour on their continuous 18-day flight via Japan and South East Asia. That's a journey of between 10,000 and 15,000 kilometres and what is even more remarkable, some of these birds are only a few months old.
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The prime reason for this extraordinary journey is to feed on the rich diversity of marine invertebrates found on the 80-Mile Beach. Some researchers claim that the biodiversity of the coastline here may be the richest in the world. The freshwater lagoons behind the coastal dunes also provide a rich source of food for some of the species of migratory waders. Roebuck Bay, near Broome, also provides a similar habitat for hundreds of thousands of birds.
The Kimberley CALM office has issued a list of ways that visitors to 80-Mile Beach can help protect these migratory wonder birds. The survival of the species depends entirely on their ability to successfully feed, rest and return to the Arctic to continue breeding. It is suggested that visitors don't drive on the beach, especially between October and April when birds are feeding and turtles are nesting. If driving is unavoidable then try not to drive near the base of the dunes where turtles and some seabirds lay their eggs. To avoid disturbing the feeding or roosting waders, be extremely careful at high tide when flocks are resting. Lights or torches will disturb nesting turtles and birds at night and it is extremely important that dogs be kept away from the nesting sites. CALM also asks that visitors avoid polluting the beach with plastic bags, oil, fuel or refuse. It doesn't take much effort to comply with these regulations, just a bit of care and common sense.
The turn-off into the 80-Mile Beach Caravan Park is 45km south of the Sandfire Roadhouse on the Great Northern Highway. The ten kilometre access road into the park is unsealed but regularly graded. However, this road can be impassable after extremely heavy rain and we heard of tourists being holed up for over a week when the road was closed. Heavy winter rain is rather unusual in this part of Western Australia, but we were deluged by 105mm of rain in one day when camped at Broome! Most rain falls in summer during the cyclone season.
Facilities at 80-Mile Beach include a well-stocked mini-market and bakery, which is open twelve hours a day, seven days a week during the peak season April to October, with reduced hours November to March. Petrol is also available at the park headquarters during office hours. The un-powered tent sites are all ideally located a stones' throw from the beach but, because the shade trees are planted in rows, campers can find themselves packed closely back-to-back if the area is full. However, it's a great way to meet your neighbours and in fact the motto for the camping ground is 'There are no strangers at 80-Mile Beach - only friends you haven't met yet.'
Getting There
Eighty Mile Beach Is located on the coast of Western Australia, between Broome and Port Hedland. It's easily accessible from the Great Northern Highway, and is an excellent stopover point on what is otherwise a long and dusty drive. It has become an essential part of any trip to the Pilbara Region, if only for the magnificent views afforded to visitors at sunset.
Staying There
Eighty Mile Beach Caravan Park is about 250km north of Port Hedland and 365km south of Broome. There are a couple of hundred shady camping spots available, as well as provision for caravans. The are permanent vans onsite for those looking for a few more of the creature comforts than those that come with camping.
Things To Do
Fishing is easily the most popular activity on Eighty Mile Beach. The remote location means that, despite large crowds in peak season, there is an abundance of seafood just waiting to be hauled in and dropped on the barbie. The usual raft of beach activities can be enjoyed here, but keep an eye on the weather. Beach driving is allowed, but at certain times of year, restrictions and common sense require drivers to take extreme care, due to the presence of wildlife on the beach.
Around & About
Broome is 365km to the north of the caravan park, and offers visitors a great insight into life on the west coast. Known as the coastal gateway to The Kimberley, Broome is now supported by a growing tourist trade, and the pearling operations that made the town famous. Port Hedland is 250km south of the caravan park, and is a regional centre for industry. BHP has a very large operation there, and the town is known for it's wildlife as well. Whale watching and the opportunity to see turtles nesting draw thousands of tourists every year.
Important Numbers
Eighty Mile Beach Caravan Park 08 9176 5941
Broome Tourism 08 9192 2222
Port Hedland Visitor Centre 08 9173 1711
Recommended Maps
Hema Road Atlas $21.95
Discover Australia By Road $39.95
Hema The Kimberley $7.95
Hema Western Australia Handy $5.95
Hema Western Australia State Map $7.95
Dola - The Pilbara $7.35
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