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Destinations > Bladensburg NP

Bladensburg NP
Bladensburg NP
Issue: December 2002

Words by photos by John McCann

Visitors traveling through the small town of Winton in northwest Queensland are often surprised to find out just how much there is to see and do in this remote part of outback Australia. Apart from being close to where Banjo Patterson wrote our most famous song 'Waltzing Matilda', back in 1895, the little township bristles with memories from Australia's pioneering past.

This out-of-the-way region sparkles with natural gems as well, including the rugged Bladensburg National Park. Situated only 20 minutes by road south of Winton, the 85,000ha park protects mulga and gidgee woodlands along with large areas of Mitchell grass plains that are home to a number of endangered species.

Being a remote park, visitors should come well prepared for any emergencies. Apart from carrying adequate vehicle spares with you, motorists should stock up with food and drinking water in Winton before leaving for Bladensburg. It's a good idea to carry between five and seven litres per person, per day for drinking and cooking. Make sure that you have a reasonable medical kit in your vehicle as well, since you never when you will need it.

To access Bladensburg, turn off the Jundah road 8km south of Winton. From here it's 5.5km to the park boundary. The track is normally in good nick and wide enough for two vehicles. If you are coming in around dusk watch out for eastern grey kangaroos, as the last thing that you want is a collision with one of these beautiful marsupials.

About a half kilometre after entering the park you will come to a fork in the road. You can either veer left here and drive up to the ranger station - about 5.5km, or keep going straight ahead to the camping area at Brough Shed Hole 12km further on. Unfortunately, the rangers are often busy looking after this huge park and you may find no one on duty when you get there. This isn't a problem however as you can always put your camping fees in the self-registration box. There is another self-registration stand down near the camping ground.

One of the main reasons for going to the ranger base is to check out their excellent information centre which provides details about the history and geography of the park, as well as describing some of the many different species of animals and plants found there.

Apart from some thick pockets of gidgee, and other small eucalypts, most of the country that you pass through on the way to the camping area is open Mitchell grass plains. There are also a short section of clay pans that you drive over which would become a soggy quagmire and inaccessible to vehicles after heavy rain.

After passing through the mostly harsh, dry terrain, it's a pleasant feeling to finally pull into the camping ground at Bough Shed Hole on Surprise Creek. Set amidst shady River red gums, this picturesque spot is great place to relax for a few days while you explore the park. Facilities are limited to a single pit toilet, but this is more than made up for by the tranquility of the surrounding area.

It's approximately half a kilometre from the camping area down to Top Crossing on Surprise Creek. The flat, stony crossing here is smooth and normally dry and would only be covered with water after a lot of heavy rain. During the early days of settlement, the crossing was used by horse drawn wagons heading to the opal fields south of Winton.

Upon reaching the opposite bank, you travel through private property for four kilometres until you join up with the Opalton Road and enter the western side of the park. About one kilometre along this section you pass by the grave of Richard Cragg, who was a pioneering contractor from the Winton area. Cragg died from accidental poisoning in 1888.

Once you are back inside Bladensburg again the road begins a gradual rise and continues on for another 10km to the park boundary. The country through here is picturesque, especially in the late afternoon light when the suns fading rays appear to spread a golden glow over the landscape. There are a couple of spots where you can park by the side of the road and scramble up the spinifex covered hillside to take in the view. You might even be lucky enough to flush out a superbly coloured rufous-crowned emu wren, or spot one of the parks most striking feathered inhabitants - the beautifully marked spinifex pigeon.

About half a kilometre before the Opalton Road exits the park, there is a narrow one kilometre track that branches off to the left and heads to Logan Falls. For most of the year the waterfall is usually dry as a bone, and the only time that you are sure of seeing it flowing is in the wet season during the summer months. The main drawback about traveling to Bladensburg at this time of the year however is that it's extremely hot, with daily temperature often topping 40ºC.

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It's a rough scramble down a 20m gorge to reach the rockpool at the base of the falls. This tranquil little spot is shaded for most of the day, which is why there is usually water in there, even during prolonged dry spells. Wallaroos and to a lesser extent eastern grey kangaroos, come down to this rock-pool to drink during the warmer parts of the day. If you can find yourself a bit of cover amongst the rocks, you have good chance of obtaining some close-up photographs of these large marsupials.

Opalton Road, which runs through the western section of the park, can be extremely dusty in dry weather with vehicles kicking up heaps of swirling bulldust in their wake. Apart from having good seals on your doors and windows to keep the dust out, you should always remember to pull off the road if you have to stop suddenly otherwise another vehicle traveling behind may not see you and ram into your rear end.

Bladensburg National Park is a rare treat amongst Outback parks. Its isolation and rugged beauty ensure that even the most jaded of travelers will find something to amaze the senses amongst the heat and the bulldust.

Little Marsupials Take A Battering
A study by biologists at Bladensburg on the effects that feral cats and foxes were having on the park's wildlife found that while both of these introduced pests were a major threat to birds and small marsupials, cats were by far the greater problem. The stomach contents of feral cats dissected during the research found that they had preyed on twelve birds, fifteen reptile and five species of mammals. This compared to foxes, which were found to prey on three mammal, two bird and four reptile species. Biologists think the main reason why cats kill a greater number of small animals than foxes, is because the latter also feed on kangaroo road kills while cats prefer live prey.

A Great Spot For Birds
Bird life is prolific along the creek, so make sure that you are carrying binoculars and a bird identification guide so you can identify the many different types that come down to drink. Surprise Creek is one of the best places to spot the magnificent red-winged parrot, which can be seen drinking along the water's edge in the early morning and late afternoon. Galahs and white cockatoos are among the more vocal species that can be heard throughout the day, while flycatchers, pardalotes and honeyeaters dart in and out of the trees in their almost constant search for insects and nectar.

Getting There
Bladensburg National Park is approximately 15km south of Winton in far northwest Queensland. Most visitors to the park go there in the cooler months, as summer can be unbearably hot. If it looks like rain is setting in, get out fast, since the clay-pans can become an impassable quagmire when they are wet.

Staying There
There is a beautiful camping area at Bough Shed Hole along Surprise Creek. Facilities are limited to one pit toilet. There is normally plenty of water in the creek, but it is unfit for drinking, so everything should be brought in with you.

Things To Do
The park is a great place to relax and unwind before getting back on the main highway to continue your journey to other parts of Queensland. Bladensburg is an ornithologists dream, as it is a crossover point for many species of birds that are found in the western, northern an eastern parts of the country. Nature lovers can even go spotlighting for wildlife at night since the park is home to a wide variety of marsupials and other small native mammals.

Around & About
Winton, was the birthplace of QANTAS and is one of Queensland's best known outback towns. There is plenty to see and do there and visitors could easily spend a couple of days checking out Waltzing Matilda Centre, opal cutting along with some of the towns beautifully restored hotels.

Important Numbers
Ranger UHF channel 18 (07) 4657 1192
Department of Environment - District Office (07) 4658 1761
Qantilda Museum Winton (07) 4657 1618

Recommended Maps
Hema Queensland Outback $7.95
Hema Great Desert Tracks-North-East Sheet $14.95
Hema Road Atlas $21.95
Hema Discover Australia By Road $39.95
Hema Queensland Handy Map $5.95

 

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