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Destinations > Wilsons Promontory
Wilsons Promontory
Issue: October 2001
Words and photos by Andrew Gregory
Known to Victorians as 'The Prom', Wilsons Promontory is one of Australia's most popular National Parks. Although it's close proximity to Melbourne makes it a regular weekend destination for Victorians, its attractions lure wilderness lovers from all over the world.
The Promontory's huge granite rocks, pristine beaches and mountain ranges provide awe-inspiring scenery. The park is actually a huge mass of granite that was once joined to Tasmania by the land bridge that has now become Bass Strait. Twelve thousand years ago, when the last ice age ended, the sea level rose about 140m and flooded the bridge. The geology of the land here is, understandably, very similar to that of Mount William National Park, in Tasmania's northeast.
The park is the most southerly point of the Australian mainland. It encompasses 130km of coastline, and has a diverse array of landscapes. Spectacular beaches are protected by huge headlands. Behind some of the beaches lurk dunes and marshes, which provide habitats for a myriad of bird species and other wildlife. The park has a number of impressive peaks, which create their own weather. Clouds can be seen forming into thunderheads over Mount Oberon (558m) in the west or Mount Wilson (705m) in the east. The high rainfall has given the area a dense cover of vegetation, and rainforest gullies line the slopes of the peaks.
The appeal of Wilsons Promontory lies in its natural beauty and the fact that it is essentially a wilderness area. There are over 700 native plant types in the area, some even native to Tasmania, which have remained in the park. The wildlife is diverse, and visitors are sure to see wombats, echidnas, koalas, wallabies and possums. Look harder at dusk and you might see bats and sugar-gliders. The landscape is so wild and dense that in the past there have even been claims of thylacine sightings - the elusive Tasmanian Tiger.
The Promontory has been a National Park since 1898, due largely to the lobbying of environmentalists. Previously the park was used for logging and whaling, two of Australia's major early industries. George Bass named Sealers Cove after he had his men shoot seals in 1798 and Refuge Cove housed a whaling station in the 1840s. In the 1850s, a timber mill was established at Sealers Cove to supply wood to Melbourne; at low tide you can still see the ruins of the jetty.
The Promontory is roughly two hours drive from Melbourne, and there is only one sealed road within the park. From the boundary, it is about 30km to Tidal River settlement, which has a ranger station, visitor centre and gift shop. In the summer months, there are even movie screenings. Tidal River is situated on Norman Bay, which is one of the safest swimming beaches in the park, and is very popular in the summer months. Small boats are able to be launched in Tidal River.
Tidal River provides the only vehicle based camping in the park. There are hundreds of good sites in grassy and shady places. Wombats are common here and you will probably have some waddling through your campsite. As well as campsites, there are also self-contained cabins and huts. The park gets full in summer months, so bookings are essential. If you choose to stay at Tidal River there are some great short walks starting from the camping area. One of the most popular is the walk to Squeaky Beach, which is a few kilometres long and leads to a white sand beach backed by dunes and mountains. This is a great beach for photography, as well as swimming, diving, fishing and surfing.
You can have an enjoyable stay at the Prom without going far from Tidal River (some people never stray far from there, even after years of visiting the region) but the real attraction of the park is in its wilderness walks. Treks range from short day trips to overnight hikes, and a few take a minimum of three days to complete. Most of the park is only accessible on foot. The trails take you through some of the most breathtaking scenery - sometimes along the beaches, other times through rainforest, and yet more trails wander the tops of the cliffs which drop off into the ocean.
One of the great walks within the park is the 36km circuit to the eastern beaches of Sealers Cove, Refuge Cove and Waterloo Bay. The lure of these beaches was enough to make me take on the hike by myself. I started out from the Mount Oberon carpark, which is where most of the walks to the eastern and southern sections of the park begin. From here you can do a steep, one hour walk to the summit of Mount Oberon, which is one of the best views in the park - the beaches of Norman Bay, Squeaky Beach and Whisky Bay are spread out before you. From the carpark there is an access road called Telegraph Track which is only for National Parks use. It leads down to the lighthouse in the southern point of the park.
The track to Sealers Cove is roughly ten kilometres long, and heads due east. The first part of the track is well gravelled and climbs gently from the carpark to Windy Saddle around a series of spurs. The walk continues through an open forest of Eucalypt, Peppermint and Banksia trees. After a few kilometres, the track opens out onto Windy Saddle, an open grassy area. From here there are some excellent views over the Titania Creek and Tidal River valleys, and the valley behind Sealers Cove.
From Windy Saddle the track becomes narrower and descends through tall forests of Messmate. This is a beautiful part of the walk. You slowly descend through the forest, at times coming upon permanent rainforest gullies filled with ferns and waterfalls. There are some massive fallen logs across the park, which suggest the size of the Eucalypts here in the past. After several steep sections and almost two hours walking, you have your first view of Sealers Cove and the cliffs of the Mount Wilson Range.
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The track continues until you reach Sealers Swamp. This part of the track is boardwalked and passes through paperbarks and ferns. It is such a boggy section that without the boardwalk it would be almost impenetrable. There are two footbridges and then the track reaches the beach. Sealers Cove is a huge bay surrounded by peaks. The beach is very tidal and at low tide is a mass of yellow sand. To reach the camping area you have to walk to the southern section of the beach and cross Sealers Creek. You need to time your walk, as at high tide the water in the creek is very deep.
The camping area is in a beautiful setting amongst the forest behind the beach. You literally step from the sand into the forest. In late afternoon the colours of the creek, the sound of the surf and the peacefulness of the area all combine to leave a lasting impression. There is a small freshwater creek near the campsite and lots of friendly Rosellas. At night I could hear the possums rustling around in the trees near my tent.
The walk back up to Mount Oberon is not too difficult, and some people just stay overnight at Sealers Cove and return the next day. Another interesting option for walkers is an overnight trip to the lighthouse. It's a 37km hike which can be done as an overnight trip. Tour groups are available, which stay at the lighthouse itself, which is close to the most southern tip of the Australian mainland - a wild and beautiful spot.
In the northern sections of the park, the tracks are far more remote. They are only maintained by the use they receive, and there is often very little water in this section of the park. Anyone hiking through here should be well prepared, and preferably quite experienced.
There are also a couple of interesting places to visit just a short drive from Tidal River. Picnic Point is a headland between Picnic Bay and Whisky Bay, which is rumoured to be names after the cases of Whisky washed ashore from a ship. There is a lookout on the headland that offers views across the bay, and provides an excellent vantage point for the sunset. Both of these beaches are wide open and backed by sand dunes.
Further north is Darby Beach, which has a creek flowing out into the ocean that drains from Darby Swamp. There is a lot of birdlife around the creek. From here, a long walk leads out to Tongue Point, which provides great views up and down the coast. There are some magnificent sand dunes north of Darby Beach, which becomes Cotters Beach and extends for nearly 20km into a remote coastal wilderness.
Another popular walk near Tidal River is the climb to the summit of Mount Bishop, which takes about one and a half hours from the carpark at its base. If you make the climb, you will be rewarded with spectacular views both inland and out toward Squeaky Beach.
I have made a number of trips to Wilsons Promontory, but it is such a vast park that I could do many more trips before experiencing all it has to offer. I have visited in summer and winter, and enjoyed it just as much in both seasons. There isn't a lot of 4WDing to be done within the confines of the park, but the overnight walks provide a great way to experience the incredible natural beauty of the region, and will leave you with a wealth of memories for your efforts.
Getting There
Wilsons Promontory is only 200km from the heart of Melbourne, making it a popular spot amongst Victorians for day trips or overnight stays. There is little vehicular access to the park, as even bicycles have been banned from any area past normal vehicle access points.
Staying There
There are plenty of places to camp within the Prom, but all overnight stayers require an overnight pass, available from the Ranger. There are also some cabin and lodge accommodation options available, the most famous of which is the lighthouse stay.
Many of the popular camping areas require a fairly lengthy hike, so make sure you're fit and well-prepared for the trek. The campsites in the northern regions of the park can be closed over summer due to lack of fresh water - check with the Ranger before attempting these treks during summer.
Things To Do
The main attractions of the park are undoubtedly the maze of bushwalking tracks that criss-cross the park. The walks range from easy, ten minute strolls to arduous multi-day odysseys. All walkers and campers should be completely self-sufficient in terms of food and water, and always alert the authorities as to where you plan to stay within the park.
Photography is also a major drawcard for visitors to the Prom. All manner of animal and plant life is abundant within the confines of the park, including over 700 native plants.
Around and About
The nearby towns of Foster and Fish Creek offer the usual range of services for travellers - food, fuel and water can all be found in these locations. Foster is a picturesque little town, convenient to many local wineries and offering good accommodation. Once the site of a minor gold rush, the town now survives on tourism and an agricultural show held in February.
Phillip Island is just a hop, skip and a jump away from Wilson's Prom. Home to some of Australia's best deep water fishing, and a famous penguin colony, Phillip Island is also a Mecca for motorcycle enthusiasts.
Important Numbers
Ranger 03 5680 9555
Lodge Bookings 03 5680 9500
Lighthouse Tours 03 5680 8529
Recommended Maps
Hema Road Atlas $21.95
VICMAP - Wilsons Prom $9.20
AUSLIG Wilsons Prom $7.70
Victoria Handy Map Hema $6.95
Words and photos by Andrew Gregory
Known to Victorians as 'The Prom', Wilsons Promontory is one of Australia's most popular National Parks. Although it's close proximity to Melbourne makes it a regular weekend destination for Victorians, its attractions lure wilderness lovers from all over the world.
The Promontory's huge granite rocks, pristine beaches and mountain ranges provide awe-inspiring scenery. The park is actually a huge mass of granite that was once joined to Tasmania by the land bridge that has now become Bass Strait. Twelve thousand years ago, when the last ice age ended, the sea level rose about 140m and flooded the bridge. The geology of the land here is, understandably, very similar to that of Mount William National Park, in Tasmania's northeast.
The park is the most southerly point of the Australian mainland. It encompasses 130km of coastline, and has a diverse array of landscapes. Spectacular beaches are protected by huge headlands. Behind some of the beaches lurk dunes and marshes, which provide habitats for a myriad of bird species and other wildlife. The park has a number of impressive peaks, which create their own weather. Clouds can be seen forming into thunderheads over Mount Oberon (558m) in the west or Mount Wilson (705m) in the east. The high rainfall has given the area a dense cover of vegetation, and rainforest gullies line the slopes of the peaks.
The appeal of Wilsons Promontory lies in its natural beauty and the fact that it is essentially a wilderness area. There are over 700 native plant types in the area, some even native to Tasmania, which have remained in the park. The wildlife is diverse, and visitors are sure to see wombats, echidnas, koalas, wallabies and possums. Look harder at dusk and you might see bats and sugar-gliders. The landscape is so wild and dense that in the past there have even been claims of thylacine sightings - the elusive Tasmanian Tiger.
The Promontory has been a National Park since 1898, due largely to the lobbying of environmentalists. Previously the park was used for logging and whaling, two of Australia's major early industries. George Bass named Sealers Cove after he had his men shoot seals in 1798 and Refuge Cove housed a whaling station in the 1840s. In the 1850s, a timber mill was established at Sealers Cove to supply wood to Melbourne; at low tide you can still see the ruins of the jetty.
The Promontory is roughly two hours drive from Melbourne, and there is only one sealed road within the park. From the boundary, it is about 30km to Tidal River settlement, which has a ranger station, visitor centre and gift shop. In the summer months, there are even movie screenings. Tidal River is situated on Norman Bay, which is one of the safest swimming beaches in the park, and is very popular in the summer months. Small boats are able to be launched in Tidal River.
Tidal River provides the only vehicle based camping in the park. There are hundreds of good sites in grassy and shady places. Wombats are common here and you will probably have some waddling through your campsite. As well as campsites, there are also self-contained cabins and huts. The park gets full in summer months, so bookings are essential. If you choose to stay at Tidal River there are some great short walks starting from the camping area. One of the most popular is the walk to Squeaky Beach, which is a few kilometres long and leads to a white sand beach backed by dunes and mountains. This is a great beach for photography, as well as swimming, diving, fishing and surfing.
You can have an enjoyable stay at the Prom without going far from Tidal River (some people never stray far from there, even after years of visiting the region) but the real attraction of the park is in its wilderness walks. Treks range from short day trips to overnight hikes, and a few take a minimum of three days to complete. Most of the park is only accessible on foot. The trails take you through some of the most breathtaking scenery - sometimes along the beaches, other times through rainforest, and yet more trails wander the tops of the cliffs which drop off into the ocean.
One of the great walks within the park is the 36km circuit to the eastern beaches of Sealers Cove, Refuge Cove and Waterloo Bay. The lure of these beaches was enough to make me take on the hike by myself. I started out from the Mount Oberon carpark, which is where most of the walks to the eastern and southern sections of the park begin. From here you can do a steep, one hour walk to the summit of Mount Oberon, which is one of the best views in the park - the beaches of Norman Bay, Squeaky Beach and Whisky Bay are spread out before you. From the carpark there is an access road called Telegraph Track which is only for National Parks use. It leads down to the lighthouse in the southern point of the park.
The track to Sealers Cove is roughly ten kilometres long, and heads due east. The first part of the track is well gravelled and climbs gently from the carpark to Windy Saddle around a series of spurs. The walk continues through an open forest of Eucalypt, Peppermint and Banksia trees. After a few kilometres, the track opens out onto Windy Saddle, an open grassy area. From here there are some excellent views over the Titania Creek and Tidal River valleys, and the valley behind Sealers Cove.
From Windy Saddle the track becomes narrower and descends through tall forests of Messmate. This is a beautiful part of the walk. You slowly descend through the forest, at times coming upon permanent rainforest gullies filled with ferns and waterfalls. There are some massive fallen logs across the park, which suggest the size of the Eucalypts here in the past. After several steep sections and almost two hours walking, you have your first view of Sealers Cove and the cliffs of the Mount Wilson Range.
read on below advertisement
The track continues until you reach Sealers Swamp. This part of the track is boardwalked and passes through paperbarks and ferns. It is such a boggy section that without the boardwalk it would be almost impenetrable. There are two footbridges and then the track reaches the beach. Sealers Cove is a huge bay surrounded by peaks. The beach is very tidal and at low tide is a mass of yellow sand. To reach the camping area you have to walk to the southern section of the beach and cross Sealers Creek. You need to time your walk, as at high tide the water in the creek is very deep.
The camping area is in a beautiful setting amongst the forest behind the beach. You literally step from the sand into the forest. In late afternoon the colours of the creek, the sound of the surf and the peacefulness of the area all combine to leave a lasting impression. There is a small freshwater creek near the campsite and lots of friendly Rosellas. At night I could hear the possums rustling around in the trees near my tent.
The walk back up to Mount Oberon is not too difficult, and some people just stay overnight at Sealers Cove and return the next day. Another interesting option for walkers is an overnight trip to the lighthouse. It's a 37km hike which can be done as an overnight trip. Tour groups are available, which stay at the lighthouse itself, which is close to the most southern tip of the Australian mainland - a wild and beautiful spot.
In the northern sections of the park, the tracks are far more remote. They are only maintained by the use they receive, and there is often very little water in this section of the park. Anyone hiking through here should be well prepared, and preferably quite experienced.
There are also a couple of interesting places to visit just a short drive from Tidal River. Picnic Point is a headland between Picnic Bay and Whisky Bay, which is rumoured to be names after the cases of Whisky washed ashore from a ship. There is a lookout on the headland that offers views across the bay, and provides an excellent vantage point for the sunset. Both of these beaches are wide open and backed by sand dunes.
Further north is Darby Beach, which has a creek flowing out into the ocean that drains from Darby Swamp. There is a lot of birdlife around the creek. From here, a long walk leads out to Tongue Point, which provides great views up and down the coast. There are some magnificent sand dunes north of Darby Beach, which becomes Cotters Beach and extends for nearly 20km into a remote coastal wilderness.
Another popular walk near Tidal River is the climb to the summit of Mount Bishop, which takes about one and a half hours from the carpark at its base. If you make the climb, you will be rewarded with spectacular views both inland and out toward Squeaky Beach.
I have made a number of trips to Wilsons Promontory, but it is such a vast park that I could do many more trips before experiencing all it has to offer. I have visited in summer and winter, and enjoyed it just as much in both seasons. There isn't a lot of 4WDing to be done within the confines of the park, but the overnight walks provide a great way to experience the incredible natural beauty of the region, and will leave you with a wealth of memories for your efforts.
Getting There
Wilsons Promontory is only 200km from the heart of Melbourne, making it a popular spot amongst Victorians for day trips or overnight stays. There is little vehicular access to the park, as even bicycles have been banned from any area past normal vehicle access points.
Staying There
There are plenty of places to camp within the Prom, but all overnight stayers require an overnight pass, available from the Ranger. There are also some cabin and lodge accommodation options available, the most famous of which is the lighthouse stay.
Many of the popular camping areas require a fairly lengthy hike, so make sure you're fit and well-prepared for the trek. The campsites in the northern regions of the park can be closed over summer due to lack of fresh water - check with the Ranger before attempting these treks during summer.
Things To Do
The main attractions of the park are undoubtedly the maze of bushwalking tracks that criss-cross the park. The walks range from easy, ten minute strolls to arduous multi-day odysseys. All walkers and campers should be completely self-sufficient in terms of food and water, and always alert the authorities as to where you plan to stay within the park.
Photography is also a major drawcard for visitors to the Prom. All manner of animal and plant life is abundant within the confines of the park, including over 700 native plants.
Around and About
The nearby towns of Foster and Fish Creek offer the usual range of services for travellers - food, fuel and water can all be found in these locations. Foster is a picturesque little town, convenient to many local wineries and offering good accommodation. Once the site of a minor gold rush, the town now survives on tourism and an agricultural show held in February.
Phillip Island is just a hop, skip and a jump away from Wilson's Prom. Home to some of Australia's best deep water fishing, and a famous penguin colony, Phillip Island is also a Mecca for motorcycle enthusiasts.
Important Numbers
Ranger 03 5680 9555
Lodge Bookings 03 5680 9500
Lighthouse Tours 03 5680 8529
Recommended Maps
Hema Road Atlas $21.95
VICMAP - Wilsons Prom $9.20
AUSLIG Wilsons Prom $7.70
Victoria Handy Map Hema $6.95
