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Destinations > Arnhem Land
Arnhem Land
Words and photos by Andrew Gregory
Arnhem Land's vast area only has a population of about 12,000 people and it is a huge wilderness filled with beaches, islands, rivers and wetlands. Gaining access to the region isn't easy. Almost all of it is off limits to ordinary travellers. One of the more accessible places is Garig Gunak Barlu National Park, which is 200km by sea or 570km by road from Darwin. You must apply for a permit to get there, and numbers are strictly limited with only 20 vehicles at a time being granted access. Permits are available for 4WDs only, and no motorcycles are allowed.
Garig Gunak Barlu National Park is Aboriginal owned land. The National Park includes the peninsula and surrounding waters, which were once part of the Coburg Marine Park. The peninsula is one of the most northern points of the Territory and juts out into the Arafura Sea. It is very remote and is accessed by driving through Kakadu and Arnhem Land.
Jabiru is the closest town, which can be reached via the sealed Arnhem Highway. The East Alligator River forms the border between Arnhem Land and Kakadu. It can be a dangerous river and has claimed many vehicles. Cahills Crossing is the only way across - it is a sealed causeway, which is never dry. Although the crossing is 80km from the coast, the tide still surges up the river, taking five hours to reach the crossing. A high tide will probably completely cover the crossing and make driving a vehicle across impossible. The East Alligator is a popular fishing spot and you can watch people lure fishing for Barramundi. Take care though, there are some big crocs near the crossing and in the past people have been taken off the banks.
Once you cross the East Alligator you drive through a beautiful stretch of road in between the wetlands and some huge sandstone escarpments. Permission can be obtained to visit Oenpelli, which is an Aboriginal community and cultural centre. From Cahills Crossing it is 266km to the Ranger Station at Smith Point and for most of the way the road is good gravel. There are a few river crossings and in places washouts and muddy sections. Be warned that there are a few blind corners and you may encounter other drivers who are on the return leg of the trip.
The trip will take about five hours and the permit does not give permission to stop on the way, so be prepared to make the trip in one go. On the way you will pass a range of scenery from plains and forests to water crossings with massive paperbarks. There are sections with large numbers of Kentia and Coburg Peninsula Palms. Huge termite mounds also feature quite regularly. Garig Gunak Barlu contains the first wetland in the world to be recognised as a Wetland of International Importance under the Ramsar Agreement of 1974. It now joins Kakadu as being one of fifty sites from around Australia protected under that agreement.
Garig Gunak Barlu is home to some unusual animals. As far back as the 16th century, Macassans from the north visited its shores, primarily to collect sea cucumbers and search for pearls. As a result Asian animals like Banteng Cattle, Timor Ponies and Javan Rusa Deer can still be seen in the bush. There are also wild horses, dingoes and feral pigs. There are four main Aboriginal groups who live on the peninsula and you pass roads to some outstations. Entry to these areas is by permission only.
When you arrive at Smith Point the first thing you see is the beach and the enormous Port Essington, which is a natural harbour far bigger than Sydney Harbour. It is quite unusual looking at such a large natural port with no structures or buildings on its far shores.
At Black Point there is a Ranger Station and a cultural centre that features displays of Aboriginal, Macassan and early European artifacts. As well as trade with the Macassans, which happened up until the early 1900's, the area was a site for one of the first major European settlements in the Top End. The British named the peninsula in 1818. In 1827, a defence settlement was established on the northern shore called Fort Wellington. Because the harbour formed such a large natural port, which could easily be defended, Captain Gordon Bremer was commissioned to set up The Victoria Settlement in 1838.
The site that was chosen is in the southern end of the harbour, and it can only be reached now by boat. At the small store near the Ranger Station, you can book tours to the ruins of the settlement. This is a worthwhile tour - you will be amazed at the extent of the ruins. This was a major attempt at establishing a port; there is a hospital, houses, kiln and cemetery. Old artifacts and mud bricks are scattered about on the beach.
Although the site was a good natural port the harshness of the environment took its toll. After eleven years it was abandoned with 80 lives lost. This is a remote and unforgiving part of the world. The site was hot and humid with a lack of good fresh water. Disease, termites, a lack of supplies and frequent cyclones made life difficult. About twenty years later Darwin was chosen to replace the settlement.
Because Port Essington is such a big harbour, it's great to explore in a boat. Lots of people bring their own boat to this area but you can also hire dinghies from the store. We spent a day on the harbour and saw some fascinating sights. About 10km south of Black Point is Berkeley Bay, which has a creek. There is good fishing in this creek, but it's also full of crocs - we decided to tie the boat to some mangroves to get out of the sun and nearly ran into a croc' resting amongst the roots.
There are some stunning coloured cliffs that are vividly orange and white. There are also long sandy beaches to explore. Although the water is warm and inviting you are advised not to swim alone. It is home to sharks, box jellyfish, stonefish and blue ringed octopus. Crocodiles cruise the port and coastal beaches. Of course, there's excellent fishing that attracts many anglers who catch Mackerel, Queenfish and big Trevally. I caught a large Barracuda and had a Sea Eagle swooping down on it as it was jumping out of the water - a spectacular sight. The Bay is also home to many dolphins and turtles and we were lucky enough to have a dugong surface only metres from our bow - I didn't tell anyone, though, as they are still hunted by the traditional owners.
read on below advertisement
There is plenty to do in the harbour, but the camping area is on the other side of the peninsula. The site is quite idyllic, and as you come around the point you will see white sand hills. The campsites are far more organised than I thought they would be. Set amongst tall casuarinas, each individual site has its own fireplace. There is also a shower hut. We were amongst the first in for the season - during the Wet the camping area is under water. This is basic bush camping with no power but a couple of kilometres away there is an area set aside for people with generators.
There is a magnificent beach out the front with white sand dunes. It is hard to look at the blue water and tell yourself that swimming isn't recommended. Still, the ocean breezes keep you cool and at low tide there are shallow pools left to splash in. There are still crocs on the Oceanside and we saw some tracks from a very large specimen leading down to the water from a billabong near our camp. The beaches on the east side are fantastic for beach combing. There is an abundance of shells and bits of coral but no collecting is allowed. Offshore there are coral reefs and a number of small islands.
There is a sandy track from Smith Point to Stewart Point, which is about 20km long. On the way, the track passes sandy beaches and dunes. There is bay after bay of white sand and rocky headlands. Inland, there are rainforest patches, swamps and lagoons. We actually found the bays further south to be better for fishing and landed some big trevally right off the beach. It's possible to take a track through the bush and end up on the main road south of Black Point.
As you reach Stewart Point, the bays become rockier and you can see one of the Aboriginal Settlements on the other side of Port Bremer. The park is within the clan estates of the Iwaidja speaking people of Western Arnhem Land. Ownership is shared between four Aboriginal clan groups - the Agalda, Ngaindjagar, Madjunbalmi and Muran. There are a few outstations around the ports and harbour. The parks are managed jointly by the traditional owners and the Parks and Wildlife Commission. Most of the traditional owners keep to their own areas, and you won't come into contact with many of them. We spoke to some of the locals using a spear to fish near Smith Point.
If you need a little more comfort than the campsite can provide, there are four beach huts for hire. They overlook the entrance to Port Essington and are right near the beach. They have power, gas stove and a fridge. Cooking utensils and linen are also provided. There are outside toilets and showers - some people moor their boats from the beach outside the huts.
Just near the huts is Smith Point, which marks the entrance to Port Essington. The point is a low rocky cliff and there is a monument that was built here at the time of the original settlement. It has recently been restored to its original state. Smith Point is a great spot to fish from or to watch the sunset. One evening there were six 4WDs parked at the monument. This turned into informal sundowners as we watched the sun set into the Arafura Sea.
It is a privilege to be allowed to go to Garig Gunak Barlu. Permits are usually only issued for seven days, which is only just long enough. If you book ahead you could be one of the people lucky enough to experience a very special part of Australia. You have to make your own fun but in such a wild, remote and beautiful place there will always be surprises.
Getting There
Garig Gunak Barlu National Park is located 570km by road from Darwin, in Arnhem Land. Formerly known as Gurig National Park and the Coburg Marine Park, Garig Gunak Barlu has combined these two remarkable features of Arnhem Land. The drive to the park is via an unsealed, 4WD only road. There are a couple of river crossings, most notable being Cahills Crossing over the East Alligator River. Timing of tides is crucial for this crossing, as a high tide can render the river impassable for a number of hours.
Access is restricted to 20 vehicles at a time, and passes are generally only granted for a seven day period. Seven day permits cost $232.10 for seven days, and cover camping and transit costs. Permits are available by applying in writing to The Permit Officer, PO Box 496, Palmerston NT, 0831.
The best time to visit is between May and September, but seasonal road closures may vary these times, so check with the Ranger before heading out.
Staying There
There are a few dedicated camping areas within the park boundary, including sites that have been set aside for generator camping away from the bulk of the unpowered sites.
Cabins are available on the beach near the entrance to Port Essington, but there are only four of them so booking ahead for these is essential.
Things To Do
The park is a very remote spot, so there is little in the way of external entertainment available. The most popular activities are beachcombing, fishing and boating. Visitors are strongly advised that swimming is a very bad idea - the local waters are home to quite a few nasties, including saltwater crocs, sharks, box jellyfish, blue ringed octopus, stonefish and sea snakes.
The rest of the park is home to saltwater crocs as well, so be aware that they are around, and follow the usual precautions. If in doubt, ask the ranger for advice. There are also a number of historic sites to visit within the park's boundaries, as well as an Aboriginal cultural centre. Bushwalking is another popular past time within the park.
Around & About
Darwin is a fairly long drive from the park, but is a good base of operations for exploring the region. Driving from Darwin to Garig Gunak Barlu National Park requires a trip through Kakadu, so it makes sense to put Australia's most famous National Park on the itinerary for your trip.
Important Numbers
National Park Permit Office 08 8999 4814
Black Point Ranger 08 8979 0244
Beach Hut Bookings 08 8979 0263
Recommended Maps
Hema Road Atlas $21.95
Hema Top End and Western Gulf $7.95
Hema Northern Territory Map $5.95
Hema Darwin City Map $4.95
Arnhem Land's vast area only has a population of about 12,000 people and it is a huge wilderness filled with beaches, islands, rivers and wetlands. Gaining access to the region isn't easy. Almost all of it is off limits to ordinary travellers. One of the more accessible places is Garig Gunak Barlu National Park, which is 200km by sea or 570km by road from Darwin. You must apply for a permit to get there, and numbers are strictly limited with only 20 vehicles at a time being granted access. Permits are available for 4WDs only, and no motorcycles are allowed.
Garig Gunak Barlu National Park is Aboriginal owned land. The National Park includes the peninsula and surrounding waters, which were once part of the Coburg Marine Park. The peninsula is one of the most northern points of the Territory and juts out into the Arafura Sea. It is very remote and is accessed by driving through Kakadu and Arnhem Land.
Jabiru is the closest town, which can be reached via the sealed Arnhem Highway. The East Alligator River forms the border between Arnhem Land and Kakadu. It can be a dangerous river and has claimed many vehicles. Cahills Crossing is the only way across - it is a sealed causeway, which is never dry. Although the crossing is 80km from the coast, the tide still surges up the river, taking five hours to reach the crossing. A high tide will probably completely cover the crossing and make driving a vehicle across impossible. The East Alligator is a popular fishing spot and you can watch people lure fishing for Barramundi. Take care though, there are some big crocs near the crossing and in the past people have been taken off the banks.
Once you cross the East Alligator you drive through a beautiful stretch of road in between the wetlands and some huge sandstone escarpments. Permission can be obtained to visit Oenpelli, which is an Aboriginal community and cultural centre. From Cahills Crossing it is 266km to the Ranger Station at Smith Point and for most of the way the road is good gravel. There are a few river crossings and in places washouts and muddy sections. Be warned that there are a few blind corners and you may encounter other drivers who are on the return leg of the trip.
The trip will take about five hours and the permit does not give permission to stop on the way, so be prepared to make the trip in one go. On the way you will pass a range of scenery from plains and forests to water crossings with massive paperbarks. There are sections with large numbers of Kentia and Coburg Peninsula Palms. Huge termite mounds also feature quite regularly. Garig Gunak Barlu contains the first wetland in the world to be recognised as a Wetland of International Importance under the Ramsar Agreement of 1974. It now joins Kakadu as being one of fifty sites from around Australia protected under that agreement.
Garig Gunak Barlu is home to some unusual animals. As far back as the 16th century, Macassans from the north visited its shores, primarily to collect sea cucumbers and search for pearls. As a result Asian animals like Banteng Cattle, Timor Ponies and Javan Rusa Deer can still be seen in the bush. There are also wild horses, dingoes and feral pigs. There are four main Aboriginal groups who live on the peninsula and you pass roads to some outstations. Entry to these areas is by permission only.
When you arrive at Smith Point the first thing you see is the beach and the enormous Port Essington, which is a natural harbour far bigger than Sydney Harbour. It is quite unusual looking at such a large natural port with no structures or buildings on its far shores.
At Black Point there is a Ranger Station and a cultural centre that features displays of Aboriginal, Macassan and early European artifacts. As well as trade with the Macassans, which happened up until the early 1900's, the area was a site for one of the first major European settlements in the Top End. The British named the peninsula in 1818. In 1827, a defence settlement was established on the northern shore called Fort Wellington. Because the harbour formed such a large natural port, which could easily be defended, Captain Gordon Bremer was commissioned to set up The Victoria Settlement in 1838.
The site that was chosen is in the southern end of the harbour, and it can only be reached now by boat. At the small store near the Ranger Station, you can book tours to the ruins of the settlement. This is a worthwhile tour - you will be amazed at the extent of the ruins. This was a major attempt at establishing a port; there is a hospital, houses, kiln and cemetery. Old artifacts and mud bricks are scattered about on the beach.
Although the site was a good natural port the harshness of the environment took its toll. After eleven years it was abandoned with 80 lives lost. This is a remote and unforgiving part of the world. The site was hot and humid with a lack of good fresh water. Disease, termites, a lack of supplies and frequent cyclones made life difficult. About twenty years later Darwin was chosen to replace the settlement.
Because Port Essington is such a big harbour, it's great to explore in a boat. Lots of people bring their own boat to this area but you can also hire dinghies from the store. We spent a day on the harbour and saw some fascinating sights. About 10km south of Black Point is Berkeley Bay, which has a creek. There is good fishing in this creek, but it's also full of crocs - we decided to tie the boat to some mangroves to get out of the sun and nearly ran into a croc' resting amongst the roots.
There are some stunning coloured cliffs that are vividly orange and white. There are also long sandy beaches to explore. Although the water is warm and inviting you are advised not to swim alone. It is home to sharks, box jellyfish, stonefish and blue ringed octopus. Crocodiles cruise the port and coastal beaches. Of course, there's excellent fishing that attracts many anglers who catch Mackerel, Queenfish and big Trevally. I caught a large Barracuda and had a Sea Eagle swooping down on it as it was jumping out of the water - a spectacular sight. The Bay is also home to many dolphins and turtles and we were lucky enough to have a dugong surface only metres from our bow - I didn't tell anyone, though, as they are still hunted by the traditional owners.
read on below advertisement
There is plenty to do in the harbour, but the camping area is on the other side of the peninsula. The site is quite idyllic, and as you come around the point you will see white sand hills. The campsites are far more organised than I thought they would be. Set amongst tall casuarinas, each individual site has its own fireplace. There is also a shower hut. We were amongst the first in for the season - during the Wet the camping area is under water. This is basic bush camping with no power but a couple of kilometres away there is an area set aside for people with generators.
There is a magnificent beach out the front with white sand dunes. It is hard to look at the blue water and tell yourself that swimming isn't recommended. Still, the ocean breezes keep you cool and at low tide there are shallow pools left to splash in. There are still crocs on the Oceanside and we saw some tracks from a very large specimen leading down to the water from a billabong near our camp. The beaches on the east side are fantastic for beach combing. There is an abundance of shells and bits of coral but no collecting is allowed. Offshore there are coral reefs and a number of small islands.
There is a sandy track from Smith Point to Stewart Point, which is about 20km long. On the way, the track passes sandy beaches and dunes. There is bay after bay of white sand and rocky headlands. Inland, there are rainforest patches, swamps and lagoons. We actually found the bays further south to be better for fishing and landed some big trevally right off the beach. It's possible to take a track through the bush and end up on the main road south of Black Point.
As you reach Stewart Point, the bays become rockier and you can see one of the Aboriginal Settlements on the other side of Port Bremer. The park is within the clan estates of the Iwaidja speaking people of Western Arnhem Land. Ownership is shared between four Aboriginal clan groups - the Agalda, Ngaindjagar, Madjunbalmi and Muran. There are a few outstations around the ports and harbour. The parks are managed jointly by the traditional owners and the Parks and Wildlife Commission. Most of the traditional owners keep to their own areas, and you won't come into contact with many of them. We spoke to some of the locals using a spear to fish near Smith Point.
If you need a little more comfort than the campsite can provide, there are four beach huts for hire. They overlook the entrance to Port Essington and are right near the beach. They have power, gas stove and a fridge. Cooking utensils and linen are also provided. There are outside toilets and showers - some people moor their boats from the beach outside the huts.
Just near the huts is Smith Point, which marks the entrance to Port Essington. The point is a low rocky cliff and there is a monument that was built here at the time of the original settlement. It has recently been restored to its original state. Smith Point is a great spot to fish from or to watch the sunset. One evening there were six 4WDs parked at the monument. This turned into informal sundowners as we watched the sun set into the Arafura Sea.
It is a privilege to be allowed to go to Garig Gunak Barlu. Permits are usually only issued for seven days, which is only just long enough. If you book ahead you could be one of the people lucky enough to experience a very special part of Australia. You have to make your own fun but in such a wild, remote and beautiful place there will always be surprises.
Getting There
Garig Gunak Barlu National Park is located 570km by road from Darwin, in Arnhem Land. Formerly known as Gurig National Park and the Coburg Marine Park, Garig Gunak Barlu has combined these two remarkable features of Arnhem Land. The drive to the park is via an unsealed, 4WD only road. There are a couple of river crossings, most notable being Cahills Crossing over the East Alligator River. Timing of tides is crucial for this crossing, as a high tide can render the river impassable for a number of hours.
Access is restricted to 20 vehicles at a time, and passes are generally only granted for a seven day period. Seven day permits cost $232.10 for seven days, and cover camping and transit costs. Permits are available by applying in writing to The Permit Officer, PO Box 496, Palmerston NT, 0831.
The best time to visit is between May and September, but seasonal road closures may vary these times, so check with the Ranger before heading out.
Staying There
There are a few dedicated camping areas within the park boundary, including sites that have been set aside for generator camping away from the bulk of the unpowered sites.
Cabins are available on the beach near the entrance to Port Essington, but there are only four of them so booking ahead for these is essential.
Things To Do
The park is a very remote spot, so there is little in the way of external entertainment available. The most popular activities are beachcombing, fishing and boating. Visitors are strongly advised that swimming is a very bad idea - the local waters are home to quite a few nasties, including saltwater crocs, sharks, box jellyfish, blue ringed octopus, stonefish and sea snakes.
The rest of the park is home to saltwater crocs as well, so be aware that they are around, and follow the usual precautions. If in doubt, ask the ranger for advice. There are also a number of historic sites to visit within the park's boundaries, as well as an Aboriginal cultural centre. Bushwalking is another popular past time within the park.
Around & About
Darwin is a fairly long drive from the park, but is a good base of operations for exploring the region. Driving from Darwin to Garig Gunak Barlu National Park requires a trip through Kakadu, so it makes sense to put Australia's most famous National Park on the itinerary for your trip.
Important Numbers
National Park Permit Office 08 8999 4814
Black Point Ranger 08 8979 0244
Beach Hut Bookings 08 8979 0263
Recommended Maps
Hema Road Atlas $21.95
Hema Top End and Western Gulf $7.95
Hema Northern Territory Map $5.95
Hema Darwin City Map $4.95
