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Destinations > Barrington Tops NP
Barrington Tops NP
Issue: January 2001
Words and photos by Peter Thoeming
The plane's twin engines sing contentedly in the cold, moist air, as relaxed in their nacelles as the pilot is tense in his cockpit seat. He is staring out into the featureless pure white of the icy cloud, his knuckles on the controls almost as white as the cloud, willing something to emerge from the deceptive cottonball blandness. And then something does, and he has no more than a fraction of a second, probably not even enough time to begin to pull back on his steering column, before the aircraft smashes into a stand of Antarctic beeches festooned with wreaths of frost.
The clouds briefly fight the blossoming flame and quickly win, dousing it and closing again. The mile-high peaks of Barrington Tops have claimed another aircraft, and another life.
In truth, nobody knows how many there have been. At least one aircraft is still missing somewhere in those cloud-shrouded hills, and according to some there may be as many as half a dozen.
Mount Barrington, Polblue Mountain and Carey's Peak wait on, wrapped in their cloud and speckled with snow and ice at almost any time of year. Most planes fly higher these days but there is still the occasional single-engine aircraft, helicopter or ultralight. Meanwhile there is other prey, lower down.
Let's Be Careful Up There
That might seem like a rather over-dramatic introduction to a weekend's 4WDing but then Barrington Tops is a dramatic place. Originally a part of the Australian Agricultural Company's huge grant that covered the Hunter Valley - including Newcastle, which the company named - the Tops were first logged fairly thoroughly and rather crudely, then harvested more carefully. Large tracts were turned into state forests, although much of this area has now been dedicated as part of the park.
The Tops have regenerated spectacularly well, the original rainforest vegetation spreading from the areas saved from logging (often just by their inaccessibility) out into the nearly 40,000ha which now constitute the national park.
The Tops consist of two linked plateaus with a few remnant peaks. They are also known as 'bucketts', a corruption of an Aboriginal word meaning 'big rocks', and big rocks they are, especially as you view them from the Bucketts Way leading north to Gloucester. The Tops are alpine at their peaks, with a mixture of bogs, grasses and stands of the beautiful Antarctic beeches and snow gums. Further down there is temperate rainforest and wet and dry eucalyptus forest, ranging right down to subtropical rainforest in the sheltered gullies.
The park is replete with rare flora and fauna. Nine endangered plant species and 26 endangered animal species make Barrington Tops their home. They include both the unfortunately-named broad-toothed rat and the rufous scrub bird, the sphagnum frog and the red-legged pademelon.
But it's not just the plants and animals that are endangered. The Tops' wet and wild environment means tracks are very sensitive and easily degraded; that, in turn, has led to at least one 4WD tragedy when a vehicle slid off the path and somersaulted down into a steep gully. I'm not trying to scare you but it's good to be aware of potential danger - and nobody wants to be the Tops' next victim.
The National Parks & Wildlife Service closes all 4WD trails within the park between June 1 and September 30 for precisely this reason but, of course, you can't just close the forestry trails. So be careful, especially in winter, both for your own sake and for the environment.
High Times
Barrington Tops National Park is shaped a little like the heraldic symbol of the Isle of Man, with three legs radiating out from a common centre. One leg points south-west and shelters a parcel of Chichester State Forest in the crook of its knee. The next leg points north and is held in place by Stewarts Brook and Barrington State Forests, with Polblue Crown Reserve between them. The last leg points south-east, with the rest of Chichester State Forest as its eastern border.
Barrington Tops Forest Road, the main (and in winter, pretty much the only) access to the area except for the Gloucester Tops Road which leads to a dead end, hugs the northern edge of the park. It has generally been in good condition when I've used it, and would be suitable for 2WD vehicles at just about any time. It's gravel from Moonan Flat to near the Barrington River in the west.
The Gloucester Tops Road leads to a day-use area. It is mainly gravel but suitable for 2WD vehicles, however there is a slight problem - namely several fords. If it's been raining you'll definitely need a 4WD. As you enter the park on this road, the Gloucester River Camping Area is situated on your left.
The various tracks from the south all stop at or before the park boundary; the few 4WD tracks inside the park are accessible either from the Forest Road or from Moonan Flat via the Middle Ridge Trail. They provide access to Little Murray and Junction Pool camping areas. Please note that these tracks, when they are open, may only be used by 4WDs.
The tracks in the park, when they are not closed for conservation, are mostly pretty good as long as it's dry. The only thing I can say about them in the wet is: don't use them. They will very rapidly turn to glutinous and slippery mud under your wheels, besides which it's against the rules.
Fortunately you have the choice of enjoying the park or the nearby state forests, or both. They both offer camping and day-use opportunities, although to my mind the best campground in the area is at Devil's Hole on the northern edge of the park on the Barrington Tops Forest Road. It's big, well laid-out and open enough to feel airy and private at the same time.
read on below advertisement
Wood is supplied in ample quantities, so you don't need to feel embarrassed about having a decent fire. Yes, I know - 'the bigger the fire the bigger the fool'. But fires have a social function beyond just cooking, and if they're too small they don't really do the job.
There are several camping areas in the state forests and in Polblue Crown Reserve, as well as one at Youngville in Mount Royal National Park. Bush camping is permitted everywhere, provided you are away from roads and picnic areas. Unlike the parks, the Crown Reserve and state forests have a lot of 4WD tracks. It's happy trails indeed up there but please keep in mind the warning against using them in wet weather.
And if you should ever come across any unexplained bits of scrap metal in the bush, make a note of the location and tell someone about it. Who knows, it could be a clue to one of those lost aircraft.
Story & Photos by Peter Thoeming
Getting There
Barrington Tops NP is about 320km north of Sydney, inland from Taree and Forster. The range is bracketed by the New England and Pacific Highways. The quickest way to get there is up the freeway to Maitland and then on to either Dungog, Gloucester (along the Bucketts Way) or Scone (along the New England Highway). Which way you go depends on which part of the range you want to visit.
An alternative is to leave the freeway at the Peats Ridge exit and continue via Wollombi, or to exit at Freemans Waterholes and head for Cessnock. The most interesting route is along the Putty Road and through Singleton. If you're coming from the north there is a beautiful (and now sealed) road called Thunderbolts Way that leads from Walcha on the Oxley Highway to Gloucester. There is also a 4WD track down from Nundle.
The northern section of Barrington Tops NP and its neighbouring state forests are easily accessible from Scone in the west and Gloucester in the east, over the mainly unsealed Barrington Tops Forest Road. This is suitable for 2WD but the 4WD tracks are just that. Last supplies from the west are at Moonan Flat pub and from the east at Barrington General Store.
The eastern section is also accessible to 2WDs except when the fords are flooded, and is reached from Gloucester along the Gloucester Tops Road.
Dungog or Gresford make the best bases for the southern area including Chichester State Forest. Most roads and tracks are accessible by 2WD but some of them only in good weather. If it rains a 4WD will prove useful.
Staying There
For many people, the whole point of going to Barrington Tops is to camp there. I have indicated some campsites in the main story but effectively you can camp in most places (in the park you may be charged a fee) as long as you abide by the basic rules. That means things like setting up camps away from roads, picnic spots and running water, and using gas or fuel stoves where there are no authorised fireplaces. No fires are allowed outside these fireplaces in the park.
Please boil all your drinking water. Feral animals are a major problem for the park and their droppings can contaminate water supplies.
There are many alternative accommodation facilities all around the Tops. They include private and council camping areas, motels, guest houses and even resorts. See the contact numbers below for detailed information and bookings.
Things To Do
Barrington Tops is a place to use your legs and your eyes. Your legs will get you to some of the most beautiful and remote patches, and your eyes will let you enjoy the outstanding scenery, the forests and the wildlife. Leaflets describing the walks are available from the National Parks & Wildlife offices in the area, which will also have the State Forests brochures and maps.
Bushwalkers in the area should remember the weather is very changeable. Sudden weather changes including snowfalls and sub-zero temperatures cannot be ruled out at any time. Be prepared and make sure someone reliable knows where you're going and when you're due back. It is inconsiderate to make people turn out to search for you in this kind of country unless it's unavoidable. Like if you're in a plane crash.
Around & About
Scone, Gresford, Dungog and Gloucester are all pleasant towns with something to offer. The Scone Historical Society Museum is interesting, while nearby Wingen has the Australian Thoroughbred Museum. Glenbawn Dam offers watersports and horse riding. Dungog, established as a base to keep the bushrangers down, also has an historical museum but it's only open on Sundays.
Telegherry Forest Park is said to be worth a visit with its walking tracks and picnic, swimming and camping spots. Gloucester and nearby Barrington are attractive towns as well.
On the southern end of the park, Chichester Dam has a good picnic area. Southwards again is the entire Hunter Valley with its wineries, horse studs and historical townships like Morpeth.
Useful Contacts
NP&WS Raymond Terrace: 02 49831013
NP&WS Gloucester: 02 65581478
NP&WS Upper Hunter: 02 65433533
NP&WS Bulga: 02 65745275
NSW State Forests, Gloucester: 02 65581005
Gloucester Tourist Info: 02 65581408
Dungog Visitor Info Centre: 02 65521478
Ferndale Park Camping Area: 02 49959239
Barrington River Lodge: 02 65584316
Andrew & Leisa Camping Tours: 02 49332537
Avon Valley Inn, Gloucester: 02 65581016
Recommended Maps
CMA Barrington Tops and Gloucester Districts Tourist Map.
Barrington Tops State Forests - 1:125.000
A dozen or so CMA 1:25,000 topographic maps also cover the area.
Words and photos by Peter Thoeming
The plane's twin engines sing contentedly in the cold, moist air, as relaxed in their nacelles as the pilot is tense in his cockpit seat. He is staring out into the featureless pure white of the icy cloud, his knuckles on the controls almost as white as the cloud, willing something to emerge from the deceptive cottonball blandness. And then something does, and he has no more than a fraction of a second, probably not even enough time to begin to pull back on his steering column, before the aircraft smashes into a stand of Antarctic beeches festooned with wreaths of frost.
The clouds briefly fight the blossoming flame and quickly win, dousing it and closing again. The mile-high peaks of Barrington Tops have claimed another aircraft, and another life.
In truth, nobody knows how many there have been. At least one aircraft is still missing somewhere in those cloud-shrouded hills, and according to some there may be as many as half a dozen.
Mount Barrington, Polblue Mountain and Carey's Peak wait on, wrapped in their cloud and speckled with snow and ice at almost any time of year. Most planes fly higher these days but there is still the occasional single-engine aircraft, helicopter or ultralight. Meanwhile there is other prey, lower down.
Let's Be Careful Up There
That might seem like a rather over-dramatic introduction to a weekend's 4WDing but then Barrington Tops is a dramatic place. Originally a part of the Australian Agricultural Company's huge grant that covered the Hunter Valley - including Newcastle, which the company named - the Tops were first logged fairly thoroughly and rather crudely, then harvested more carefully. Large tracts were turned into state forests, although much of this area has now been dedicated as part of the park.
The Tops have regenerated spectacularly well, the original rainforest vegetation spreading from the areas saved from logging (often just by their inaccessibility) out into the nearly 40,000ha which now constitute the national park.
The Tops consist of two linked plateaus with a few remnant peaks. They are also known as 'bucketts', a corruption of an Aboriginal word meaning 'big rocks', and big rocks they are, especially as you view them from the Bucketts Way leading north to Gloucester. The Tops are alpine at their peaks, with a mixture of bogs, grasses and stands of the beautiful Antarctic beeches and snow gums. Further down there is temperate rainforest and wet and dry eucalyptus forest, ranging right down to subtropical rainforest in the sheltered gullies.
The park is replete with rare flora and fauna. Nine endangered plant species and 26 endangered animal species make Barrington Tops their home. They include both the unfortunately-named broad-toothed rat and the rufous scrub bird, the sphagnum frog and the red-legged pademelon.
But it's not just the plants and animals that are endangered. The Tops' wet and wild environment means tracks are very sensitive and easily degraded; that, in turn, has led to at least one 4WD tragedy when a vehicle slid off the path and somersaulted down into a steep gully. I'm not trying to scare you but it's good to be aware of potential danger - and nobody wants to be the Tops' next victim.
The National Parks & Wildlife Service closes all 4WD trails within the park between June 1 and September 30 for precisely this reason but, of course, you can't just close the forestry trails. So be careful, especially in winter, both for your own sake and for the environment.
High Times
Barrington Tops National Park is shaped a little like the heraldic symbol of the Isle of Man, with three legs radiating out from a common centre. One leg points south-west and shelters a parcel of Chichester State Forest in the crook of its knee. The next leg points north and is held in place by Stewarts Brook and Barrington State Forests, with Polblue Crown Reserve between them. The last leg points south-east, with the rest of Chichester State Forest as its eastern border.
Barrington Tops Forest Road, the main (and in winter, pretty much the only) access to the area except for the Gloucester Tops Road which leads to a dead end, hugs the northern edge of the park. It has generally been in good condition when I've used it, and would be suitable for 2WD vehicles at just about any time. It's gravel from Moonan Flat to near the Barrington River in the west.
The Gloucester Tops Road leads to a day-use area. It is mainly gravel but suitable for 2WD vehicles, however there is a slight problem - namely several fords. If it's been raining you'll definitely need a 4WD. As you enter the park on this road, the Gloucester River Camping Area is situated on your left.
The various tracks from the south all stop at or before the park boundary; the few 4WD tracks inside the park are accessible either from the Forest Road or from Moonan Flat via the Middle Ridge Trail. They provide access to Little Murray and Junction Pool camping areas. Please note that these tracks, when they are open, may only be used by 4WDs.
The tracks in the park, when they are not closed for conservation, are mostly pretty good as long as it's dry. The only thing I can say about them in the wet is: don't use them. They will very rapidly turn to glutinous and slippery mud under your wheels, besides which it's against the rules.
Fortunately you have the choice of enjoying the park or the nearby state forests, or both. They both offer camping and day-use opportunities, although to my mind the best campground in the area is at Devil's Hole on the northern edge of the park on the Barrington Tops Forest Road. It's big, well laid-out and open enough to feel airy and private at the same time.
read on below advertisement
Wood is supplied in ample quantities, so you don't need to feel embarrassed about having a decent fire. Yes, I know - 'the bigger the fire the bigger the fool'. But fires have a social function beyond just cooking, and if they're too small they don't really do the job.
There are several camping areas in the state forests and in Polblue Crown Reserve, as well as one at Youngville in Mount Royal National Park. Bush camping is permitted everywhere, provided you are away from roads and picnic areas. Unlike the parks, the Crown Reserve and state forests have a lot of 4WD tracks. It's happy trails indeed up there but please keep in mind the warning against using them in wet weather.
And if you should ever come across any unexplained bits of scrap metal in the bush, make a note of the location and tell someone about it. Who knows, it could be a clue to one of those lost aircraft.
Story & Photos by Peter Thoeming
Getting There
Barrington Tops NP is about 320km north of Sydney, inland from Taree and Forster. The range is bracketed by the New England and Pacific Highways. The quickest way to get there is up the freeway to Maitland and then on to either Dungog, Gloucester (along the Bucketts Way) or Scone (along the New England Highway). Which way you go depends on which part of the range you want to visit.
An alternative is to leave the freeway at the Peats Ridge exit and continue via Wollombi, or to exit at Freemans Waterholes and head for Cessnock. The most interesting route is along the Putty Road and through Singleton. If you're coming from the north there is a beautiful (and now sealed) road called Thunderbolts Way that leads from Walcha on the Oxley Highway to Gloucester. There is also a 4WD track down from Nundle.
The northern section of Barrington Tops NP and its neighbouring state forests are easily accessible from Scone in the west and Gloucester in the east, over the mainly unsealed Barrington Tops Forest Road. This is suitable for 2WD but the 4WD tracks are just that. Last supplies from the west are at Moonan Flat pub and from the east at Barrington General Store.
The eastern section is also accessible to 2WDs except when the fords are flooded, and is reached from Gloucester along the Gloucester Tops Road.
Dungog or Gresford make the best bases for the southern area including Chichester State Forest. Most roads and tracks are accessible by 2WD but some of them only in good weather. If it rains a 4WD will prove useful.
Staying There
For many people, the whole point of going to Barrington Tops is to camp there. I have indicated some campsites in the main story but effectively you can camp in most places (in the park you may be charged a fee) as long as you abide by the basic rules. That means things like setting up camps away from roads, picnic spots and running water, and using gas or fuel stoves where there are no authorised fireplaces. No fires are allowed outside these fireplaces in the park.
Please boil all your drinking water. Feral animals are a major problem for the park and their droppings can contaminate water supplies.
There are many alternative accommodation facilities all around the Tops. They include private and council camping areas, motels, guest houses and even resorts. See the contact numbers below for detailed information and bookings.
Things To Do
Barrington Tops is a place to use your legs and your eyes. Your legs will get you to some of the most beautiful and remote patches, and your eyes will let you enjoy the outstanding scenery, the forests and the wildlife. Leaflets describing the walks are available from the National Parks & Wildlife offices in the area, which will also have the State Forests brochures and maps.
Bushwalkers in the area should remember the weather is very changeable. Sudden weather changes including snowfalls and sub-zero temperatures cannot be ruled out at any time. Be prepared and make sure someone reliable knows where you're going and when you're due back. It is inconsiderate to make people turn out to search for you in this kind of country unless it's unavoidable. Like if you're in a plane crash.
Around & About
Scone, Gresford, Dungog and Gloucester are all pleasant towns with something to offer. The Scone Historical Society Museum is interesting, while nearby Wingen has the Australian Thoroughbred Museum. Glenbawn Dam offers watersports and horse riding. Dungog, established as a base to keep the bushrangers down, also has an historical museum but it's only open on Sundays.
Telegherry Forest Park is said to be worth a visit with its walking tracks and picnic, swimming and camping spots. Gloucester and nearby Barrington are attractive towns as well.
On the southern end of the park, Chichester Dam has a good picnic area. Southwards again is the entire Hunter Valley with its wineries, horse studs and historical townships like Morpeth.
Useful Contacts
NP&WS Raymond Terrace: 02 49831013
NP&WS Gloucester: 02 65581478
NP&WS Upper Hunter: 02 65433533
NP&WS Bulga: 02 65745275
NSW State Forests, Gloucester: 02 65581005
Gloucester Tourist Info: 02 65581408
Dungog Visitor Info Centre: 02 65521478
Ferndale Park Camping Area: 02 49959239
Barrington River Lodge: 02 65584316
Andrew & Leisa Camping Tours: 02 49332537
Avon Valley Inn, Gloucester: 02 65581016
Recommended Maps
CMA Barrington Tops and Gloucester Districts Tourist Map.
Barrington Tops State Forests - 1:125.000
A dozen or so CMA 1:25,000 topographic maps also cover the area.
