To find a vehicle test use the pull-down lists below.
On location, hunting for dinosaurs! While waiting for a massive Sauropod to wander across the barren...
Destinations > Off The Beaten Track
Off The Beaten Track
Issue: May 2009
Words and photos by Vic Widman
South Australia's Port Lincoln draws in tourists with its beautiful national parks, but can become crowded in peak seasons. Vic Widman shows us a few hidden treasures he's discovered off the beaten track.
G'Day, Vic Widman here, last month we ventured across the Nullarbor, a daunting trip that may not be all that well known to most of you. This month, we continue to find more hidden treasures that it seems only a few have discovered. Over the past couple of years I have found that the stretch of coast between Port Lincoln and Fowlers Bay has some of the best sand dune driving in Australia and plenty of surprises for those that take the time to explore this fantastic part of south Oz.
If you take a look at a map of Eyre Peninsular in South Australia it seems most people are drawn to the area around Port Lincoln. It is fair to say that it does boast some fabulous national parks with Lincoln National Park and Coffin Bay National Park virtually on its doorstep. These parks are truly magnificent, but it is their notoriety that may detract from their appeal for the true Overlander. Crowded campsites and over regulation in our national parks is a turn off for most of the people I know. However, I have found some magic spots further to the west along the Eyre Peninsular, which fit the bill perfectly for the Overlander reader.
If you have spent a little time around Port Lincoln, pack up the 4WD and head up the coast past Coffin Bay towards Ceduna. The road is sealed all the way and whilst it still sees quite a few grey nomads meandering around the coast, you will notice there is a decided reduction in their numbers. A couple of years ago, almost by chance, I spent a night in Elliston. Elliston is found almost halfway between Port Lincoln and Ceduna. It's a small seaside town that has a mix of the 1960s and modern day architecture literally side by side along the beachfront. But it is the amazing foreshore scenery that is the major attraction for a 4WD tourer. Some of the most stunning cliff top views can be found literally at the end of the main street.
Take time to explore the tracks that lead to the top of the cliff faces on the south east side of Elliston, especially beautiful at sunset as the golden orb settles in the west over a pounding sea. To the northwest of the town take the Great Ocean Drive, it too follows rugged cliff tops with majestic ocean views at every turn. There are a couple of good caravan parks in Elliston or you can continue to the west to explore the Lake Newland Conservation Park which has 4WD access only with a small camping area at Walkers Rock. The only downside of the area is the abundant mosquito population.
Moving further west, take as many of the side roads that you can, the main road leaves the coast and whilst the farming land can be quite delightful, it is the coast that hides the real treasures. One of these is Talia Caves and Beach. On the road into Talia Beach look for the signposts to the woolshed, this is not a historic structure but a huge cavern weathered into the coastline by Mother Nature. A walkway and steps lead to the Woolshed giving the visitor the opportunity to look deep into this incredible cavern. Another example of erosion is found nearby at the Tub. This is a large crater in the cliff with a weathered tunnel leading to the sea.
If you don't mind wetting a line on your 4WD safari, then drop into Venus Bay. Here the fishing is as good as it gets, and as easy as you like with good catches off the jetty. Oh yes, the scenery is pretty good too, take a walk along the South Head Walking Trail and don't be surprised if you spot a few dolphins, sea lions or southern right whales, if in the area between May and October.
Streaky Bay might only be 60km away but there is a lot to see before you reach this great spot. For something a little different, take the turn off to the signposted, Murphy Haystacks. These unusual granite rock formations are found in the middle of a farmer's crop. Make a donation at the gate on your way in and then walk amongst the weird rock formations. On the opposite side of the main road is Baird Bay, famous for its sea lion family. Here you can join an organised tour that allows you to swim with these beautiful creatures of the deep, certainly an experience not to be missed.
I love the slogan used by Streaky Bay, 'Take a peek, stay a week', it sums up this exquisite spot fairly well. I have camped right on the water's edge at the Foreshore Caravan Park where you can sit in your camp chair and watch the red glow of a sunset over the water and then get up early the next morning and watch the return of the sun in another red blazing sky also reflected in the waters of the bay. Streaky Bay was named by, none other than, Captain Matthew Flinders in 1802, who saw the unusual steaks of colour in the bay (not because he was running naked around the decks of his boat!). The streaks are formed by oils given off by the abundant seaweed that grows in the bay.
Although Streaky Bay itself is simply beautiful, there are many little hidden treasures around the coastline. One of my favourites are the blowholes. Follow the coast road out of Streaky Bay to Cape Bauer, more incredible foreshore scenery awaits you. As you follow the coastline, look for the signpost to the blowholes. The car park is just off the main road and the walk down to the cliffs is about 300m. Here one of the most eerie sounds you will hear is found. As the huge swells of the Great Southern Ocean pound against the rock platforms and undercut cliffs beneath your feet, a monster lurks somewhere underground and hisses and wheezes with each wave. The rock platform on which you stand is honeycombed with small apertures and as the waves rush across the rock platform and slam into the undercut cliff, air is trapped until it finds its way straight up through the small rock crevices. The air actually rushes out at your feet with great velocity, enough to lift a lady's dress or blow a bloke's hat off! The accompanying sound is something to behold and this is one place definitely not to visit after dark if you don't like things that go bump in the dark!
read on below advertisement
Ceduna is a major centre, the start point for those heading west across the notorious Nullarbor Plain. But it also offers the 4WDer the opportunity to truly escape the hoards. Heading west of town and just past the eastbound quarantine checkpoint there is a turn off to Davenport Creek and Denial Bay. Pick up a local map at the Tourist Information Centre in Ceduna and make sure you stock up with all your food and water needs. Once you cross the quarantine line, there is no coming back without losing your fresh food.
The peninsular that is Davenport Creek is actually owned by a private community, which graciously allows access to the amazing dune area and beach. French explorer, Nicholas Baudin first identified Davenport Creek in 1802, but it wasn't until 1858 that Bloomfield Douglas named the inlet after the Honourable Samuel Davenport. It has remained much the same since, and is a haven for fishing in the Mangrove-lined waters of the inlet. Incidentally these are the western-most mangroves found in South Australia.
As you approach the inlet on the gravel road you will find numerous signs advising you of ownership of the land and what you can and cannot do. Heed this advice to ensure the area remains open. Before the main car park and information signage area there is a track that leads through the dunes and onto the beach. It is absolutely essential that you drop your tyre pressures to at least 18psi per tyre before venturing onto the beach. If you take the first access road onto the beach you will soon find the crashing surf and a long, long stretch of soft sand towards Point Peter. As you head along the beach be aware of large clumps of seaweed that can accumulate under the 4WD and create a fire hazard or even bog you in a smelly, rotting, lice-infected morass, yep steer clear of it if you can.
If you were to continue to head up the gravel road rather than heading straight to the beach you will find the car park area and info shelter, stop here and drop your tyre pressures. From here the road continues on with sand dunes on your right and the mangroves of the inlet on your left. Follow the clearly identified wheel tracks through the sand and you emerge in a huge sand dune area. You are seemingly surrounded by giant sand dunes, provided you are not driving over vegetation, you could explore these dunes to your heart's content but be wary of sudden drop offs and very soft patches.
There are nearly always tracks ahead of you and if you follow these to your left and up and over the giant dunes they lead to an ideal campsite by the waters of the inlet. This spot is popular with the local fishermen so expect some company. No matter where you camp, make sure that you head down to the beach at sunset. With the east-west aspect of the beach you are guaranteed a superb red sunset reflecting off the waves and wet sand, making this a photographer's paradise.
A drive to the very end of Point Peter is a must do, but be wary it involves some quite tricky sand dune driving, and the close woody vegetation will almost certainly result in some duco scratching. But the views from the rocky headland both east to Ceduna and west back down the long beach are exceptional. There is even a quiet bay with unusual rounded granite rocks covered in red lichen, not dissimilar to those found in the Bay of Fires in Tasmania. Whilst I was here in September 2008 I spotted whales, dolphins and plenty of cormorants.
This is a truly special part of the south Oz coastline and one that not many people take time to explore, but if you add a few extra days to your travel itinerary, you will be justly rewarded.
Getting There
From Port Lincoln, just head straight up the Flinders Highway to Ceduna. Use the HEMA South Australia map and the HEMA Perth to Adelaide map. The best time to visit is May to October, which coincides with the migrating whales.
Road Conditions
The majority of this trek is actually on sealed road, but the sand dunes around Davenport Creek are typical of any other sand driving country. This trek is suitable for 4WD and AWD vehicles and off-road trailers.
Staying There
There are so many camping options, plenty of commercial caravan parks in all the main centres with every conceivable convenience and bush camping at Davenport Creek where there are no facilities.
Camping fees will vary in the commercial centres. Expect to pay around $25 for a non-powered site and up to $35 for a powered site. Campsites in national parks along the coastline are much cheaper at around $5 per night but you can't beat the free camping at Davenport Creek.
Contact numbers
Streaky Bay Visitor Information
08 8626 7033
www.streakybay.com.au
Ceduna Visitor Information
1800 639 413
www.cedunatourism.com.au
Fuel Requirements
Fuel is available at Elliston, Streaky Bay and Ceduna.
Driving tips
Keep tyre pressures to no more than 35psi on good sealed roads, but when you hit the sand at Davenport Creek drop it to no more than 20psi or lower if necessary. On the sand engage your centre differential and disengage stability control if possible. Be careful of sharp drop offs and never drive across the face of a sand dune, always straight up and down. If you are fully loaded with racks, slow down on side slopes on the sand dunes as this can lead to the vehicle rolling over.
Recommended Cooper Tyre
The Cooper ATR All Terrain Reinforced tyre is rated as 70 percent Road and Sand, 30 percent Dirt and Mud, so it would be ideally suited to this trip, which is predominantly road and sand. You want a tyre that will float on the sand when tyre pressure is dropped and one that is not too aggressive, therefore minimising the tyres tendency to bite into the sand. The Cooper ATR is made for this type of terrain. Its other huge advantage is that if used in these conditions you can expect big mileage from them, with up 90,000km per tyre being experienced by some users.
Major centres where Cooper Tires will be available include Port Lincoln and Ceduna.
Words and photos by Vic Widman
South Australia's Port Lincoln draws in tourists with its beautiful national parks, but can become crowded in peak seasons. Vic Widman shows us a few hidden treasures he's discovered off the beaten track.
G'Day, Vic Widman here, last month we ventured across the Nullarbor, a daunting trip that may not be all that well known to most of you. This month, we continue to find more hidden treasures that it seems only a few have discovered. Over the past couple of years I have found that the stretch of coast between Port Lincoln and Fowlers Bay has some of the best sand dune driving in Australia and plenty of surprises for those that take the time to explore this fantastic part of south Oz.
If you take a look at a map of Eyre Peninsular in South Australia it seems most people are drawn to the area around Port Lincoln. It is fair to say that it does boast some fabulous national parks with Lincoln National Park and Coffin Bay National Park virtually on its doorstep. These parks are truly magnificent, but it is their notoriety that may detract from their appeal for the true Overlander. Crowded campsites and over regulation in our national parks is a turn off for most of the people I know. However, I have found some magic spots further to the west along the Eyre Peninsular, which fit the bill perfectly for the Overlander reader.
If you have spent a little time around Port Lincoln, pack up the 4WD and head up the coast past Coffin Bay towards Ceduna. The road is sealed all the way and whilst it still sees quite a few grey nomads meandering around the coast, you will notice there is a decided reduction in their numbers. A couple of years ago, almost by chance, I spent a night in Elliston. Elliston is found almost halfway between Port Lincoln and Ceduna. It's a small seaside town that has a mix of the 1960s and modern day architecture literally side by side along the beachfront. But it is the amazing foreshore scenery that is the major attraction for a 4WD tourer. Some of the most stunning cliff top views can be found literally at the end of the main street.
Take time to explore the tracks that lead to the top of the cliff faces on the south east side of Elliston, especially beautiful at sunset as the golden orb settles in the west over a pounding sea. To the northwest of the town take the Great Ocean Drive, it too follows rugged cliff tops with majestic ocean views at every turn. There are a couple of good caravan parks in Elliston or you can continue to the west to explore the Lake Newland Conservation Park which has 4WD access only with a small camping area at Walkers Rock. The only downside of the area is the abundant mosquito population.
Moving further west, take as many of the side roads that you can, the main road leaves the coast and whilst the farming land can be quite delightful, it is the coast that hides the real treasures. One of these is Talia Caves and Beach. On the road into Talia Beach look for the signposts to the woolshed, this is not a historic structure but a huge cavern weathered into the coastline by Mother Nature. A walkway and steps lead to the Woolshed giving the visitor the opportunity to look deep into this incredible cavern. Another example of erosion is found nearby at the Tub. This is a large crater in the cliff with a weathered tunnel leading to the sea.
If you don't mind wetting a line on your 4WD safari, then drop into Venus Bay. Here the fishing is as good as it gets, and as easy as you like with good catches off the jetty. Oh yes, the scenery is pretty good too, take a walk along the South Head Walking Trail and don't be surprised if you spot a few dolphins, sea lions or southern right whales, if in the area between May and October.
Streaky Bay might only be 60km away but there is a lot to see before you reach this great spot. For something a little different, take the turn off to the signposted, Murphy Haystacks. These unusual granite rock formations are found in the middle of a farmer's crop. Make a donation at the gate on your way in and then walk amongst the weird rock formations. On the opposite side of the main road is Baird Bay, famous for its sea lion family. Here you can join an organised tour that allows you to swim with these beautiful creatures of the deep, certainly an experience not to be missed.
I love the slogan used by Streaky Bay, 'Take a peek, stay a week', it sums up this exquisite spot fairly well. I have camped right on the water's edge at the Foreshore Caravan Park where you can sit in your camp chair and watch the red glow of a sunset over the water and then get up early the next morning and watch the return of the sun in another red blazing sky also reflected in the waters of the bay. Streaky Bay was named by, none other than, Captain Matthew Flinders in 1802, who saw the unusual steaks of colour in the bay (not because he was running naked around the decks of his boat!). The streaks are formed by oils given off by the abundant seaweed that grows in the bay.
Although Streaky Bay itself is simply beautiful, there are many little hidden treasures around the coastline. One of my favourites are the blowholes. Follow the coast road out of Streaky Bay to Cape Bauer, more incredible foreshore scenery awaits you. As you follow the coastline, look for the signpost to the blowholes. The car park is just off the main road and the walk down to the cliffs is about 300m. Here one of the most eerie sounds you will hear is found. As the huge swells of the Great Southern Ocean pound against the rock platforms and undercut cliffs beneath your feet, a monster lurks somewhere underground and hisses and wheezes with each wave. The rock platform on which you stand is honeycombed with small apertures and as the waves rush across the rock platform and slam into the undercut cliff, air is trapped until it finds its way straight up through the small rock crevices. The air actually rushes out at your feet with great velocity, enough to lift a lady's dress or blow a bloke's hat off! The accompanying sound is something to behold and this is one place definitely not to visit after dark if you don't like things that go bump in the dark!
read on below advertisement
Ceduna is a major centre, the start point for those heading west across the notorious Nullarbor Plain. But it also offers the 4WDer the opportunity to truly escape the hoards. Heading west of town and just past the eastbound quarantine checkpoint there is a turn off to Davenport Creek and Denial Bay. Pick up a local map at the Tourist Information Centre in Ceduna and make sure you stock up with all your food and water needs. Once you cross the quarantine line, there is no coming back without losing your fresh food.
The peninsular that is Davenport Creek is actually owned by a private community, which graciously allows access to the amazing dune area and beach. French explorer, Nicholas Baudin first identified Davenport Creek in 1802, but it wasn't until 1858 that Bloomfield Douglas named the inlet after the Honourable Samuel Davenport. It has remained much the same since, and is a haven for fishing in the Mangrove-lined waters of the inlet. Incidentally these are the western-most mangroves found in South Australia.
As you approach the inlet on the gravel road you will find numerous signs advising you of ownership of the land and what you can and cannot do. Heed this advice to ensure the area remains open. Before the main car park and information signage area there is a track that leads through the dunes and onto the beach. It is absolutely essential that you drop your tyre pressures to at least 18psi per tyre before venturing onto the beach. If you take the first access road onto the beach you will soon find the crashing surf and a long, long stretch of soft sand towards Point Peter. As you head along the beach be aware of large clumps of seaweed that can accumulate under the 4WD and create a fire hazard or even bog you in a smelly, rotting, lice-infected morass, yep steer clear of it if you can.
If you were to continue to head up the gravel road rather than heading straight to the beach you will find the car park area and info shelter, stop here and drop your tyre pressures. From here the road continues on with sand dunes on your right and the mangroves of the inlet on your left. Follow the clearly identified wheel tracks through the sand and you emerge in a huge sand dune area. You are seemingly surrounded by giant sand dunes, provided you are not driving over vegetation, you could explore these dunes to your heart's content but be wary of sudden drop offs and very soft patches.
There are nearly always tracks ahead of you and if you follow these to your left and up and over the giant dunes they lead to an ideal campsite by the waters of the inlet. This spot is popular with the local fishermen so expect some company. No matter where you camp, make sure that you head down to the beach at sunset. With the east-west aspect of the beach you are guaranteed a superb red sunset reflecting off the waves and wet sand, making this a photographer's paradise.
A drive to the very end of Point Peter is a must do, but be wary it involves some quite tricky sand dune driving, and the close woody vegetation will almost certainly result in some duco scratching. But the views from the rocky headland both east to Ceduna and west back down the long beach are exceptional. There is even a quiet bay with unusual rounded granite rocks covered in red lichen, not dissimilar to those found in the Bay of Fires in Tasmania. Whilst I was here in September 2008 I spotted whales, dolphins and plenty of cormorants.
This is a truly special part of the south Oz coastline and one that not many people take time to explore, but if you add a few extra days to your travel itinerary, you will be justly rewarded.
Getting There
From Port Lincoln, just head straight up the Flinders Highway to Ceduna. Use the HEMA South Australia map and the HEMA Perth to Adelaide map. The best time to visit is May to October, which coincides with the migrating whales.
Road Conditions
The majority of this trek is actually on sealed road, but the sand dunes around Davenport Creek are typical of any other sand driving country. This trek is suitable for 4WD and AWD vehicles and off-road trailers.
Staying There
There are so many camping options, plenty of commercial caravan parks in all the main centres with every conceivable convenience and bush camping at Davenport Creek where there are no facilities.
Camping fees will vary in the commercial centres. Expect to pay around $25 for a non-powered site and up to $35 for a powered site. Campsites in national parks along the coastline are much cheaper at around $5 per night but you can't beat the free camping at Davenport Creek.
Contact numbers
Streaky Bay Visitor Information
08 8626 7033
www.streakybay.com.au
Ceduna Visitor Information
1800 639 413
www.cedunatourism.com.au
Fuel Requirements
Fuel is available at Elliston, Streaky Bay and Ceduna.
Driving tips
Keep tyre pressures to no more than 35psi on good sealed roads, but when you hit the sand at Davenport Creek drop it to no more than 20psi or lower if necessary. On the sand engage your centre differential and disengage stability control if possible. Be careful of sharp drop offs and never drive across the face of a sand dune, always straight up and down. If you are fully loaded with racks, slow down on side slopes on the sand dunes as this can lead to the vehicle rolling over.
Recommended Cooper Tyre
The Cooper ATR All Terrain Reinforced tyre is rated as 70 percent Road and Sand, 30 percent Dirt and Mud, so it would be ideally suited to this trip, which is predominantly road and sand. You want a tyre that will float on the sand when tyre pressure is dropped and one that is not too aggressive, therefore minimising the tyres tendency to bite into the sand. The Cooper ATR is made for this type of terrain. Its other huge advantage is that if used in these conditions you can expect big mileage from them, with up 90,000km per tyre being experienced by some users.
Major centres where Cooper Tires will be available include Port Lincoln and Ceduna.
