Destinations > Tough Interview

Issue: September 2008

Words and Photos by Murray White

Click here to read the article as it appeared in the magazine

Tassie's west coast calls out to serious Overlanders,
with the Interview River capping off an
action packed expedition.

Most visitors to Temma see it as the end of the road; the last outpost of humanity before the Southern Ocean drowns your senses in a boiling cauldron of white caps and biting winds. Most visitors absorb the wild, unspoiled outlook and imagine how close they have come to the very foundations of the rugged West Coast. It is awe inspiring country, and to this point relatively accessible, but then most visitors don't get as far as the Interview River.

Those adventurous few souls who continue southward to the Interview will grapple with sand dunes, slippery mats of washed up kelp and tannin stained tidal rivers. Even quicksand patches can trap the unwary, as the coastal jaunt evolves into a serious expedition.

The Interview places high demands on its visitors, but rewards the effort with a priceless experience. The drive is one of this county's finest off road treks, with superb rocky headlands punctuating long stretches of pure white sand. Waterways originating in the mountainous hinterland wash across pristine beaches, as brackish lagoons are breached at high tide.

The Interview River itself spills no more water than other rivers on the journey, but its northern banks mark the end of vehicle travel. A special permit is required to get to this point, while from a practical point of view, considerable beach driving experience should be considered mandatory for those who wish to undertake the journey. Capable 4WDs are also essential, and it would be unwise to travel with less than three vehicles in convoy, as recovery operations are all but certain.

The Interview River is bounded within the Arthur - Pieman Conservation Area (a 101,936 hectare reserve roughly delineated by the Arthur and Pieman Rivers) in Tasmania's north west corner. Only a couple of small settlements mark the gateway to this piece of wilderness, with Marrawah located at the bitumen's end, and Arthur River some 14 kilometres to the south of that.

Marrawah offers your last chance to buy fuel and top up on supplies, or perhaps drop into the state's western most tavern for some local angling advice. It's also worth paying heed to the locals' advice on vehicle access on the beach.

Rock fishing together with intrepid surfing are popular activities at nearby Green and West Points. While Green Point offers some shelter, the more exposed West Point sees some huge waves and a perpetual fresh breeze. Only the most stoic of surfers will brave the pounding conditions here - a location close to the 41st parallel of latitude and subject to the notorious roaring forties winds.

Little remains of a lighthouse built here in 1916, as the masonry structure has crumbled back into a moonscape of round stones streaked orange with lichen. Stockmen passed by these stormy parts in the 1880s, droving cattle to the fledgling mining outpost of Zeehan. In latter years pioneering farmers took up grazing and dairying throughout this north west corner of the state.

Today, fishing shacks and weekenders flag the gradual transition to recreational pursuits along this coastline. The small settlement of Arthur River caters mainly for anglers, together with the seasonal influx of tourists searching for bush camping possibilities. Cottages line both sides of the Arthur River, linked by a single lane bridge.

A ranger station is located on the northern bank, and it is from here that permits for camping and vehicle access can be arranged. One permit is required for the network of local tracks and beaches, while a special permit must be obtained for those heading to the Interview. Current and forecast weather conditions are taken into consideration before these permits are granted.

Manuka and Prickly Wattle Campsites are located just out of the Arthur River community, and both feature nice secluded sites, mostly serviced by river water (not for drinking) and pit toilets. Fire drums are provided, however wood should be used sparingly and any fire restrictions obeyed.

Excellent fishing and boating opportunities can be found on the northern bank of the Arthur via an estuary access track. Mostly firm sand allows vehicles to drive onto the beach to launch a tinny or toss in a line. Off shore islands interrupt the breaking waves, while rock pools provide an insight into the marine environment.

GETTING THERE

The Arthur-Pieman Conservation Area is located in the far north-west of Tasmania and is bordered by Marrrawah in the north, the Western Explorer Road in the east, the Southern Ocean to the west and Hardwicke Bay to the South.
Conventional vehicles are unable to travel further south along the coast than Temma, although the southern end of the park can be accessed via the Western Explorer.

Hundreds of fallen trees have crowded around the river mouth here - especially on the southern side - following their demise perhaps 50 kilometres inland. The Arthur's relentless flow has flushed these forest hulks into the Southern Ocean, only to be met with an equally powerful force pushing them back. In the turmoil that ensues, some logs drift away, but most lie beached at Gardiner Point, gradually succumbing to the elements.
Four wheel drives can access the beach from near Gardiner Point, driving for a few kilometres to a dune area known as The Bowl. Tyre pressures need to be suitably lowered, and low powered heavy vehicles will struggle in the soft conditions. Don't drive over vegetated areas and look out for quad and motorbike riders who share this area.
You can drive for another few kilometres south of The Bowl but will need to turn back at Sundown Point State Reserve - Aboriginal middens are protected by this reserve, and are easily damaged by careless visitors. Indeed many other middens and areas of indigenous significance are dotted along the coast, and usually without signage. Take care to avoid these sites, while driving.
Good gravel paves the way south from Arthur River to a four way intersection at Couta Rocks. Here Rebecca Road heads eastward to meet up with the Western Explorer Road as it pushes through the recently named Tarkine Wilderness. The latter road is suitable for conventional vehicles, but is more commonly used by 4WDs, as they head to Corrina on the Pieman River.
You will pass the turn offs to Nelson Bay and Sarah Anne Rocks on the Temma Road before reaching the Couta Rocks intersection. These three tiny communities cater for the fishing fraternity in the main, with weather beaten cottages set on the coastline. Quiet beaches and a few makeshift boat ramps are the limit of visitor attractions, but there is a nice camping area at Nelson Bay, and a prominent lookout off Couta Rocks.

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Those heading south from the Couta Rocks junction will reach Rebecca Creek and its adjacent hut and yards. Camp Elsewhere is located north of the hut through a meadow area fringed by tea tree and banksia. The local dune system has formed a sheltered area here, with Rebecca Lagoon and its resident birdlife just a short distance away.

STAYING THERE

A number of designated camps are found within the Arthur - Pieman. Basic facilities are provided at Arthur River, Pedder River, and Kitchen Camp. Greenes Creek and Club 24 are just bush sites, but offer good shelter in windy conditions.

FUEL AND SUPPLIES

Fill up with fuel at Marrawah as the soft sand on Tassie's West Coast will certainly test even the most economical vehicles. Marrawah and Arthur River may supply basic food needs, but major provisions are best obtained at Smithton.

Stinking Beach and Temma are reached south from Rebecca Creek and mark the last cluster of shacks before the road system deteriorates into sandy furrows. Several creeks are bridged on the inland track network as you lurch past Dantys Corner and Gannett Point on the coast, and the Balfour Track heading east.
The latter option is a rough, flood prone link with the Western Explorer Road, and notorious for its plentiful bogholes. For 4WDers it is an ideal exit from the Arthur - Pieman as it follows in the tracks of a wooden tramway used in the early 1900s to transport copper ore from the mine at Balfour to a harbour at Temma (then called Whales Head).

PERMITS

A permit is required to access the beach areas around Arthur River, and to exit the conservation area via the Balfour Track. A special permit must be obtained to drive the difficult section between Greenes Creek and the Interview River.

TRACK STANDARD

Access to the shack communities within the Arthur - Pieman are relatively easy, deteriorating as you head further away from the main routes. Beach access everywhere is difficult, and the Interview River leg can be impassable. The latter destination demands experienced convoy groups, recovery equipment and capable vehicles.
At the time of printing access to Sandy Cape was temporarily closed due to bridge maintenance. Check with Tasmania PWS for current access and conditions.

Beyond the Balfour junction, twin wheel tracks creep through stunted coastal heathland to a crossing of Brooks Creek and some views at Ordnance Point. Greenes Creek is just a couple of kilometres further on, with a fenceline flagging the left turn to a sheltered camping area.
The camping area is found adjacent to several middens and the almost invisible waters of Greenes Creek, which emerge from a sand blow to trickle out in a broad fan onto the rock strewn beach. No facilities are provided at Greenes Creek, and it is from here that more difficult vehicle travel will be experienced.
Lower your tyre pressures to around 15 - 18 psi and travel in close convoy on the beach run to Sandy Cape to facilitate a speedy recovery should the need arise. However don't drive so close to each other that a simultaneous bogging is possible; this remote country is unforgiving, and it is claimed that on average one vehicle is lost per year to the ocean.
We find that most 4WDs will need to remain in low range for much of the beach run as the sand is routinely quite soft and power sapping. Firmer sand is usually found closer to the water's edge, but be on a constant look out for freak waves and waterway gutters.
You will cross several rivers enroute to the Interview with the Thornton being the first serious crossing, and a litmus test for those following. In wet years it may be impassable, while a drier than average summer can see it retreat to a mere trickle. Either way treat all waterways with caution, and time your crossing to coincide with the ocean's ebb.
Beyond the Pedder River veer left over a headland to pass the occasional dune blowout on a complex track system around Sandy Cape. Contrary to its name, this cape is fringed with rock, and a lighthouse sits adjacent to Koonya Inlet. Camping is permitted at the Pedder River crossing and Kitchen Camp, both of which have pit toilets. Club 24 Camp has no facilities, but offers a sheltered retreat, ringed with superb coastal forest.
Continuing south, you will reach a rangers shack just north of Native Well Bay and follow a track close to the coastline. Mobile dunes feature on the southern journey, with previous access tracks being fairly indistinct.

You may find it necessary to plot a path on foot first as you decide on the best route forward. Conditions are continually variable and are certainly dependant on current tide conditions and previous storm or flood damage.
In most cases the usual track is obvious as it follows the beach or crosses a rocky headland. Watch for sharp rocks with aired down tyres, especially a gnarly section about ten kilometres south of Sandy Cape. There are a couple of testing dunes enroute, one of which proved to be unscaleable by a heavily laden Cruiser in our group. To our amazement, we were not the first casualties - a steel winch anchor point was already embedded in the sand!

Other dunes may need run ups, alternative gear choices, or simply a tad less air. Part of this country's appeal lies in being able to overcome the challenges dished out.

When you finally reach the Interview take some time to appreciate its timeless character, unchanged by human intervention. The tannin stained waters have wound their way through inaccessible forests and buttongrass plains to merge with pounding surf at your feet. The Interview is a tough journey, but a compelling destination.

WHEN TO VISIT

The West Coast is best tackled in Summer, when river levels are at their lowest, and the air temperature is at its warmest. Autumn still offers some possibilities for adventurous groups, but the cooler, wetter months are definitely off limits.

THINGS TO DO

Surf and rock fishing is popular along the West Coast, with some boating to be found on the Arthur River. Limited surfing is undertaken near West Point, but only the bravest will appreciate the pounding conditions. Dedicated 4WDers will revel in the remote and challenging conditions.

IMPORTANT NUMBERS

Parks Wildlife Service Tasmania

Ph:03 6457 1225

www.parks.tas.gov.au/

RECOMMENDED MAPS

Hema Tasmania Handy Map 1:650 000

 

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