Destinations > Sand Storm

Issue: February 2009

Words and photos by Stephen Langman

Click here to read the article as it appeared in the magazine

Any visit to outback Australia is always very rewarding, but some tracks offer something special that make them stand out above the others.

The Sandy Blight Junction Track is located in the remote deserts of Western Australia and the Northern Territory and was constructed by Australia's last true modern day explorer, Len Beadell and his famous Gunbarrel Road Construction Party less than 50 years ago. During the very latter part of this road-making exercise, Len was suffering badly from the very painful eye condition called sandy blight, which feels like the eyeballs are coated with sand, with every blink making the eyes extremely painful. On the night Len was carrying out the astronomical observation of fixing the position accurately for this new corner, the condition of his eyes made his job so much harder, and by midnight, Len had obtained enough times and angles to produce the nearest possible fix available while in the field. During that night the words 'sandy blight' kept repeating themselves in his mind, and it was in this time of intense pain and discomfort that the name of the new junction was decided. The next day, after many painful hours of mathematical calculations to determine the correct coordinates of this new junction, a new aluminium plate was stamped out under the bold heading 'Sandy Blight Junction'.
Prior to travelling the Sandy Blight Junction Track, we had spent 10 days travelling a number of tracks that were built by the Gunbarrel Road Construction Party. We made our way back to the Warakurna Roadhouse on the Great Central Road for well overdue showers and to replenish our fuel supplies before our further adventure north. No visitor to Warakurna Roadhouse should miss the opportunity to inspect another tribute to Len and his team, the Giles weather station. The station, only a few kilometres north of the roadhouse, is Australia's most remote meteorological station and features the picturesque Rawlinson Ranges as a backdrop.
Built in 1988 as an official army bicentennial project, Lenny's Cat Cage housed the grader that was used to construct more than 6000km of new outback roads. Also on display in the car park area are the remains of the first Blue Streak Rocket that was launched from Woomera on June 5, 1964 and discovered approximately 50km south east of Giles in 1980. If you are fortunate to be at the weather station at the correct time, you will get to see first hand the launching of one of the weather balloons, learn how the station is run, and be given a rundown on the operations and how they use all the data collected at the site. We spent the best part of two-hours at the weather station and it was now time to leave Giles and make our way further east and start the next stage of our journey and another of Len's tracks.
We had no sooner left the roadhouse and started our way back along the Great Central Road, when we came across a vehicle in trouble on the side of the road. The workman from Alice Springs was on his way out to one of the local Aboriginal Communities when one of his rear tyres was punctured and needed changing. To his horror, the jacking handle for the jack was missing, and he had spent the last hour under his fully loaded Nissan ute slowly raising the jack with a small ring spanner. We were able to help out and in 15-minutes, we had his wheel changed and he was on his way to Warakurna to have his tyre repaired. It brought home the fact that you must be prepared for all types of situations that may arise when travelling in remote locations. We would love to have been a fly on the wall when he returned to Alice Springs and advised his fellow workers to check his vehicle correctly before being sent out by himself!
Back on our way again, we made a very small detour, turning off down the Wingelina road for a few kilometres to inspect the marker that Len erected for the original starting point for the then unnamed track north. At the official starting point for the new road north, there is a stand of desert oaks on the other side of the road, opposite the Len Beadell marker, which make a great little campsite. It is from here that it all started on the March 31, 1960.
After leaving this important little spot, it is back out to the Great Central Road and further east to the next marker that Len had blazed on a ghost gum, with Gill Pinnacle as the backdrop. What had only taken us a very short time to reach this spot along the main road had taken the Gunbarrel Road Construction Party 10 days. Travelling further east, the Schwerin Mural Crescent was terminating and the Rebecca Creek was getting closer. As there are no signposts to tell you where to turn off, it is important to carry out pre-trip preparations correctly. Just before reaching the Rebecca Creek, there is a track on the left, indicating that this was the start of the famous Sandy Blight Junction Track and it was now time to start the northward journey with the Anne Range and Mount Ant the next beacons. The road through this section is very wide, sandy and smooth.
You are now travelling parallel to the Waler James Range, and we were hoping that the track built by the Gunbarrel Road Construction Party into Bungabibby Rockhole would still be visible. The only bush sign that indicated that we may now be at the correct turnoff into the Walter James Range and the waterhole, was an old Ford wheel, complete with tyre leaning against a small bush and the well used track leading straight towards a gap in the range and hopefully Bungabiddy Rockhole. Turning towards the gap in the range, we were soon made aware that we were on the right track into Bungabiddy with a very old sign from the 'Keep Australia Beautiful' campaign days stating 'Do Not Litter or Pollute Water Holes'. Arriving at the end of the track, the gap in the range was clearly visible and we were at once greeted by the sight and sounds of hundreds of zebra finches. Any traveller to remote locations in outback Australia will be aware that a sure sign of reliable water in the area is local wildlife, and the great number of these birds would testify to this. Recent local rains in this area had brought to flower, the holly grevilleas that were numerous in this area and a very pleasing sight. As my group set off towards the gap armed only with cameras, my thoughts were reflected back into time and the sounds of Len's hobnail boots as he made his way up this silent canyon. We were not afforded the silence, as again the zebra finches were very noisy and echoed in the narrow rock covered canyon. Well before seeing the waterhole, the next sign of permanent water was the discovery of camel droppings, ground to fine powder by the countless number of feral camels that made their way up this one-way canyon in search of that life giving liquid. Another sign of an important location to the local Aboriginal people were the very old rock painting that stood as silent sentinels near this body of water. The water level was down a long way, nearly two-metres judging by the high water level markings on the rocks, but was still very deep. Sitting down and admiring the sheer size of the vertical walls and this large body of natural water, it would be a very unreal sight in a very wet season, with the water cascading down from higher up in the gorge and filling this remarkable rock hole. Making our way back to our vehicles, we decided to make use of this very pleasant area and made it our lunch stop, before venturing on.

GETTING THERE

For those travellers that are driving the Great Central Road, and are not on a strict timetable, the Sandy Blight Junction Track would make a great detour on your way to or from Central Australia. Travelling through from Yulara and Docker River, the unmarked major turn off will be just inside Western Australia, after crossing Rebecca Creek. If travelling up the Great Central Road from Giles, the turn off will be at the termination of the Schwerin Mural Crescent and before you enter Rebecca Creek. From Alice Springs, head out past Papunya and Mount Liebig. It would be advisable to stock up at Kintore before making that small back track which is very clearly signposted, 'Docker River 340 4WD Only'.

SUPPLIES

Travelling through this remote country of Central Australia requires that all travellers must be fully self sufficient and carry enough food, water, fuel, basic vehicle spares and a good remote area first aid kit and reliable long distance communications, either HF Radio or satellite phone and I also carry a PLBS. Travelling in from the east, Alice Springs or Yulara will be your last chance to stock up on all major items that you will require to complete this trip. The Aboriginal Communities of Docker River, Warakurna Roadhouse, Kintore and Papunya will all have basic supplies.

FUEL

There are no fuel supplies along the entire length of the Sandy Blight Junction Track. Depending on which way you come from, fuel will be available from Warakurna Roadhouse near Giles, Docker River and Kintore. It should also be noted that if your vehicle uses unleaded fuel, only Opal unleaded will be available while travelling through most of Central Australia. Another important note is that it is illegal to carry spare unleaded fuel as a back up supply. If you think you won't get through on a full tank, then the spare fuel carried must be Opal only.

Travelling still further north, there were signs of road works in the area, improving and building up some of the lower lying areas of the road, a sure sign that they may look fine when dry, but would be treacherous when the conditions became wet. While travelling through one of these areas we came across our first bush erected sign, painted on an old car bonnet, advising drivers that this was a 4WD track and no heavy trucks by order of Toby F. These roads were still wide and firm, but would turn quickly when wet and yes, heavy vehicles would do great damage to this road in such conditions. The country was now changing again, with the ranges very impressive in our rear view mirrors with open country in front of us. We were now starting to think if it was going to be like this all the way to Kintore and then track conditions changed instantly. There on the side of the road was one of those large green and white road signs, indicating Kintore straight ahead on a narrow two-wheel track, while the wide and smooth track continued to the right headed towards Tjukurla Aboriginal Community. We were now back to the preferred conditions, on tracks that see far fewer vehicles than other major 4WD destinations in outback Australia. Track conditions were constantly changing and we were soon in red sand dune country, dominated by large valleys of desert oaks. The ever changing scenery was making this part of the trip most enjoyable, apart from the few corrugations that must be expected in any remote area of travelling, and then a call came out over the radio that one of my group had stopped and was after some help. Over the previous week of travel over the Abandoned Section of the Old Gunbarrel Highway, the roads had slowly been taking its toll of one of the group's roof rack and now it was saying that it did not want to go on any further. Normally such a minor problem would be a setback, but with a perfect camping area set amongst a very large grove of mature desert oaks just ahead, there were no second thoughts and by 2.15pm we were set up for an early camp in what would have been one of the best campsites along the Sandy Blight Junction Track. We were able to rearrange the load from the rack to inside the vehicle and the crippled roof rack was strapped to the roof rack of another member's vehicle. It was agreed by all members of the group that it was a perfect location and with time on our side, one of the group cooked a roast for tea.

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Leaving this great little spot the next morning was hard, with time on our side we could have easily have stayed here another day soaking up the atmosphere. Within a few kilometres, we were again in open country and ever changing conditions. Travelling still through soft sand, this section of land had not been burnt by man or nature for a number of years, with large sections of spinifex with tall flower heads dwarfing our vehicles. Stopping our vehicles to inspect this very tall spinifex, we could not believe the height of it; close to two-meters.
Back on the track again, conditions were still ever changing and every now and then, tall termite mounds around a metre tall were starting to appear. For the rest of the trip they were often seen, becoming more numerous the further we travelled north. A section of track was in the bed of a water course. In this area where there were no water courses as such, small canyons more than a metre deep had carved out the original section of track, through years of water erosion. One such washaway separated the track and one of Len's blazed desert oak trees, marking 124-miles until the Sandy Blight Junction and 126-miles since leaving the Giles Weather Station.
Clearing the dune country, we were again into open country with scattered vegetation and spinifex, with our next target to the north now clearly in our sights. Looming ahead of us was the Sir Frederick Range, which gives visitors the chance the drive to the summit and is the highest vehicle access point along the Sandy Blight Junction Track. The country that we were travelling through had been burnt out and gave the landscape an eerie appearance, with the naked range clearly visible, because of the lack of vegetation, and clearly visible was the large stone cairn that was erected at the summit. Before turning off to the summit track, drivers should carefully take note of what Len had stamped on the plaque, advising travellers that it has very steep grades. Up until this point, there was no need to engage 4WD, but this was going to change shortly, due to steep grades and the large stones that the track was blazed over to reach the summit. Ground clearance is also a very important factor, as two vehicles in our party, a Nissan Navara and a Mazda BT50, both stock standard, were not able to drive to the summit.

WHEN TO VISIT

The best time to visit this area of Central Australia is in the cooler months between April and October. In the event of wet weather, do not attempt to travel these tracks, as you will do great damage to the already remote tracks, as well as using far more fuel than you would usually uses. If unsure, then check with the Police at Docker River, Warakurna or Kintore.

PERMITS

The complete area that you are travelling through is entirely Aboriginal Land and permits must be obtained in advance from the Central land Council. There is no charge for the permits and you are required to have them with you when you travel.

The summit of the Sir Frederick Range at 688-metres is only 210-metres lower than the summit of Mount Leisler, which is the highest mountain in that part of Australia. Len knew immediately that when he first visited the range, the establishment of a survey beacon at its highest point would be paramount, to aid future follow up survey parties from the National Mapping Council. The views from the summit can only be described as breathtaking and the effort to reach this point is rewarding.
Back down to the main track and into ever changing scenery, with the burnt out country left behind and back into tall spinifex, tall termite mounds and those great desert oaks. I am never one to make late camps and when we came upon another perfect campsite in the desert oaks and sand dune country, close to the Western Australia/Northern Territory Border, we decided to call it a day, even though it was only 3.30pm. Setting up camp was a very quick and easy affair for us, as with all trips away, you always seem to refine on what you take away and how you set it up and this trip was no exception. Since our last trip away, we decided to replace our homemade awning set up on the side of our vehicle with a Black Widow awning, With its sturdy design and very quick set up timeit was a wise purchase. Just like their draw system that we already had fitted to our vehicle, their reliability and toughness is second to none, and the awnings are no exception. We soon had a great campfire going and unwound at the end of yet another perfect day of driving and our last night of camping in the deserts of Western Australia.
Crossing the border the next morning was followed by the mandatory photo stop for the Len Beadell State Border Marker, and it was here that we also noted the first signs from both Aboriginal Councils, advising all travellers that they must have the required permits while travelling through this Aboriginal land. Continuing our journey, we knew that our next major landscape feature would be the Davenport Hills, named by William Tietkens after Sir Samuel Davenport, the then President of the South Australian Branch of the Royal Geographical Society. This small group of hills was passed and it was not long before the most prominent feature of this area now came into view, the bluff of Mount Leisler and the track heading straight towards the eastern bluff. The road was guided by this bluff alone, and again we thought of Doug Stoneham, the bulldozer driver for the Gunbarrel Road Construction Party. In country like this, Doug was solely guided by prominent features, such as this bluff as he pushed this road further north. With the Davenport Hills still close by, we came to another of Len's famous road markers. On the side of the track with the Davenport Hills in the background, is a large white painted rock, weighing almost a tonne, with the wording '200 Miles'.

RECOMMENDED MAPS

The Hema Great Desert Tracks, North Central Map will cover this entire area, giving good detail and showing the location for all of Len's Markers.

IMPORTANT NUMBERS

Central Lands Council, Alice Springs 08 8951 6320

Ngaanyatjarra Council, Alice Springs 08 8950 1711

Department of Indigenous Affairs, Perth 08 9235 8000



When Len originally reached this spot, he decided against erecting one of his famous trademark signposts, with aluminium plaque and the usual information, as it was too close to the Tropic of Capricorn, and would not mean as much, so Len originally erected a small stone cairn at this point. While moving large rocks closer to this location, a suitable rock was selected for the 200-miler instead of the rock cairn and it was lifted in place with a bulldozer. With photos in hand of this theft proof marker sign, it was further north for a few more kilometres until our next stop at Len's marker at the Tropic of Capricorn. The lure of Mount Leisler was beckoning us, so we set off again and homed in on the highest feature at the southern end of the Kintore Range that the Sandy Blight Junction Track has to offer.
Mount Leisler was now almost on top of us and we knew that we must be nearly at Len's marker and Tietken's blaze tree. Coming around a small corner, the first thing that caught my eye was the small painted Len marker on the side of the track, with the usual Len stamped aluminium plaque attached. Directly opposite this on the other side of the track were the sad remains of the blaze tree that is no longer standing and in a state of termite attack. The blaze area is still clearly visible, but if the remains of the tree are not treated, then this important piece of Australian history will be lost forever and the only thing that future generations will have of this once very proud tree will be photos.
A small bloodwood tree is growing near the downed tree and we wondered if this was in some way related to this very old and dead tree. One thing that caught my attention was the dozens of galls that were growing in the small bloodwood tree. Having been a fan of Les Hiddins and his popular TV series, Bush Tucker Man, I knew that these were in fact the bloodwood gall or 'bush coconut'. It was time now to head further north to the last rocky outcrop known as the Ngutjul Rock Outcrop. These unusual shape and size rocks, some as large as a house, seem quite out of place. Len Beadell was so impressed with this outcrop that he again decided to make the road go straight past them, so all future travellers could also admire this conglomeration of rocks. We were now back into civilisation, as there were a number of Aboriginal outstation and many tracks leading off the main track that we were travelling. Arriving at the junction with the main Kintore Road, we still had one last Len post to locate. Looking due north of the junction, this large white marker post was clearly visible. Within a short time, we were all refuelling our vehicles at the Aboriginal community of Kintore before heading back the way we had just come towards Papunya and further travels throughout Central Australia. We drove past the Sandy Blight Junction turn off and if time was on our side and we did not have other pre made plans, we all would have loved nothing better than to travel back down the track through one of Central Australia's best kept secrets.

 

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