Destinations > Gateway to the High Country

Issue: August 2008

Words and photos by Shirley Hayes

Click here to read the article as it appeared in the magazine

You'll hear about the Victorian High Country often in Overlander. It's an awe inspiring part of Australia and one that offers a wide variety of off road driving and travel opportunities.
Mt Lawson State Park is one of them.

Mt Lawson State Park is situated in northeast Victoria between the Murray Valley Highway and the Murray River. It's not a large park - just 13,150ha - but the area preserves a unique environment of rugged cliffs and rocky bluffs and provides a variety of recreational opportunities for anyone who wants a break from the everyday grind for a while. There is a network of 4WD tracks throughout the park but most of them are dry weather only and subject to seasonal closures. Horse riding and mountain biking is allowed on any of the tracks that are open to vehicles and Koetong Creek is a popular fishing spot.

National Parks has a full list of tracks and a mud map of the park and visitors are encouraged to contact the ranger at Parks Victoria, Tallangatta before heading into the park, especially after rain.
With limited time available to us for setting up a campsite within the state park, we opted for a cabin in the delightful little settlement of Colac Colac, about 8km from Corryong. It's easy to access the southern section of Mt Lawson Park by driving 44km from Colac Colac via the Murray Valley Highway and turning onto the Mt Lawson Road. Though not officially within the park boundaries, it's worth taking a detour in off the road, just after the turnoff, to take a look at the historic railway trestle bridge. The turnoff is well signposted and there are interpretive signs erected along the short walk to the bridge. This magnificent old bridge over Boggy Creek was constructed in 1915 from blue gum that was found locally in the area. The bridge was strong enough to support trains weighing more than 500-tonnes and was used for transporting materials for the construction of the Snowy Mountains Scheme.

We continued along Mt Lawson Road making our next port of call the campgrounds at Koetong Creek. There are two areas set aside for camping and the one furthest from the road is the pick of them. The campsites are idyllically sited near picturesque Koetong Creek with a picnic table and fireplace but no toilets or showers. The only thing spoiling the scene for us was the large assortment of used toilet paper and tissues left behind by mindless morons who obviously had no thought for the comfort of fellow campers. It is not hard to store or bury toilet refuse!

The area preserves a unique environment of rugged cliffs and rocky bluffs and provides a variety of recreational opportunities for anyone who wants a break from the everday grind for
a while.

GETTING THERE

Mt Lawson State Park is located between the Murray Valley Highway and the Murray River Road near Koetong, a one-hour drive from Wodonga. Access to the more popular areas is via Mt Lawson Road in the southern section or the Kurrajongs in the northern part of the park.

STAYING THERE

There are two campgrounds at Koetong Creek in the southern section of the park while the Kurrajongs is located in the northern section. Campsites are well maintained but have only basic facilities such as tables and a fireplace. There is no water, toilets or showers available so it's BYO everything. Take all rubbish out with you and make adequate toilet arrangements during your stay.

The park is only a half hour drive from Corryong and 20 minutes from Tallangatta, where all types of accommodation and facilities are available. The caravan park at Colac Colac is extremely comfortable and good accommodation is also available at the Koetong Pub.

A walk to the summit of Mt Lawson was our next objective so we followed the signs along Mt Lawson Road to the picnic area at the base of the mountain. It was such a peaceful setting here in among the tall trees - just the perfect spot for a picnic lunch before setting out on the trek to the 1041m summit. If you just want to reach the summit and enjoy the magnificent views, simply walk up the maintenance track, which starts at the picnic area. This will only take about 15-minutes up a steep incline on a well defined track with just a few steep boulders to negotiate at the top. The 360 degree views out over the Victorian High Country, Lake Hume and the Murray River Valley are stunning - especially on a clear autumn day. We had the place to ourselves and could have been a million miles from anywhere, just soaking up the solitude.

If you choose to do the 1.3km nature loop walk, be prepared for a rough hike. The trail has been signposted with arrows but these peter out in places and the 'path' becomes a series of unstable rocks steeply descending back to the picnic area. The severe drought the country had been experiencing at the time of our visit made the rocks slippery from dry leaf litter and loose sandy soil. It was easier to keep plugging away along the track than to turn back to the summit and return via the maintenance track, so our 40-minute 'walk' took a lot longer than expected. It is times like these that I am reminded just how important it is to always carry extra drinking water and even some snacks when setting out on any nature trail. Sturdy boots were helpful here too and probably prevented a twisted ankle.

We headed back down from the mountain and set out to explore the northern section of the park. A right hand turn at the base of the mountain gets you on to the Boulder Track, which meets up with the Thologolong Track after 5.1km. Both these tracks are pretty rough but the surrounding forest of thick shrubs and tall stringy bark gums makes for a pretty drive. The Thologolong Track becomes the Stockyard Creek Track after 5.3kms, at the park boundary. Stockyard Creek Track takes you back to the Murray River Road through private property. Always remember to leave all gates as you found them and respect the owner's privacy. Parts of these tracks are not well sign-posted so GPS readings have been included in the fact file for reference.

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The Kurrajongs Camping area is located in the northern section of the park, just off the Murray River Road. This section was closed at the time of our visit but, when open, you can access the challenging, rugged 14km return walk to Flaggy Creek Gorge. In season, the waterfalls and rock pools here are said to be stunning. If you are not up to the full trek, there is a short 1.5km return walk to valley view where you can enjoy panoramic views out over the Murray River, Lake Hume and the surrounding valley.

The first European settlers arrived around this district in the 1860s
and used the area mainly for grazing but also for small scale logging.
The timber they collected was used to make fenceposts and for firewood.

AROUND AND ABOUT

The Koetong Pub is a great place for a meal or an overnight stay and the fishing in nearby Nariel Creek is said to be among the best in Australia. The rural scenery around Tallangatta is worth having a look at and the views from the lookout over the Mitta Mitta River are spectacular. Corryong is a pretty little town where you'll find everything you need in the way of facilities. They also have an excellent tourist information centre.

THINGS TO DO

There are numerous 4WD tracks throughout Mt Lawson State Park though most are dry weather only. Horse riding and mountain biking are permitted on all tracks open to vehicles and Koetong Creek is a popular place to fish. The Summit Walk is probably the pick of walking tracks providing outstanding views over the Murray River Valley and the Victorian High Country. There's also the 14km return Flaggy Creek Gorge walking trail for the more adventurous as well as the 1.5km return Conic Range Walking Track from the Firebrace Track, which has excellent views over Koetong Creek and the northern sections of the park. The historic trestle bridge can also be accessed from the Firebrace Track and also from Mt Lawson Road.

The area around Flaggy Creek has a long history of mining dating back to 1939, when tungsten-bearing ore was mined and used for reinforcing steel during the Second World War. Alluvial tin mining continued around Flaggy and Koetong Creeks until the early 1980s. Abandoned mine shafts still exist in some areas of the park so take care if you're venturing anywhere off track. The state park was declared in 1987 to preserve the unique ecosystem and also protect the history of the area.

We drove back to camp via Tallangatta and called in at the lookout over the Mitta Mitta River. This beautiful, peaceful rural countryside is picture perfect, especially in the late afternoon. The first European settlers arrived around this district in the 1860s and used the area mainly for grazing but also for small-scale logging. The timber they collected was mainly used to make fence posts and firewood.
The aboriginals of the Yiatmathong tribe had used the rocky outcrops overlooking the Murray River for thousands of years before the coming of the white settlers. Evidence of their occupation can be found throughout the area in rock shelters and cave paintings. Each summer groups of aboriginals gathered together in the alpine areas to feast on the nutritious bogong moths. There was no shortage of food, water or shelter and this was the perfect place to hold important ceremonies.
We couldn't resist stopping for a cold beer at the historic Koetong pub on the way home. This charming old pub is steeped in history and the publican is not short of a yarn to tell. There are always the stories about the fishing in this part of the country - apparently the trout just jump onto your line as soon as the bait hits the water, and special little places that only the locals know where you're always assured of bagging out. Nearby Nariel Creek is said to have some of the finest fly-fishing in Australia. Then there are the romantic tales of wild brumbies as they gallop through the winter snow and the magnificent spring display of wild orchids in the high country. The pub also offers accommodation, meals and of course that welcome coldie.

The first thing we did when we got back to our cabin was book in for another night so we could explore the nearby Burrowa Pine Mountain National Park the following day. There's something about this magnificent mountain country that keeps calling you back and urging you to explore and experience that special feeling of `The Great Southern Outback'.

RECOMMENDED MAPS

Parks Victoria Mt Lawson State Park Visitors Guide: Free

Hema Map - Victoria Eastand West 1:750,000: $8:95

GDA Topographic MapSJ55-03 Tallangatta 1:250,000: $7.95

GPS READINGS

Koetong Creek Campground: 36.05.54S - 147.27.00E

Southern Park Entrance: 36.08.50S - 147.27.40E

Turnoff to Mt Lawson: 36.03.25S - 147.26.54E

Thologolong and Boulder Track Jctn: 36.22.35S - 147.45.56E

IMPORTANT NUMBERS

Parks Victoria Information Centre

34 Towong Street, Tallangatta Tel: 02 6071 5301

Website: www.parkweb.vic.gov.au



Colac Colac Caravan Park

Murray Valley Highway Corryong Tel: 02 6076 1520



Koetong Pub

Murray Valley Highway Tel: 02 6072 7530

 

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