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Destinations > Buckenderra, South-East NSW
Buckenderra, South-East NSW
Issue: July 2006
Words and photos by Shirley Hayes
The Patch Catch
If you take your 4WD to the Snowies you'll be lured by the magic of Buckenderra and Lake Eucumbene - hook, line and sinker.
The Snowy Mountains in NSW is known as 'The Great Southern Outback'. It's a mecca for anglers, photographers and travellers around the world. Lake Eucumbene and Buckenderra Village with their spectacular 4WDing tracks, top fishing spots, gorgeous campsites and breathtaking scenery is the jewel in the crown.
Buckenderra Village is set on 100 acres of idyllic Snowy Mountain country, which includes over 12km of Lake Eucumbene foreshore. Attractions, apart from the glorious isolation, include angling and photography. Lake Eucumbene is world renowned for its trout fishing. Without exception, we have always caught a feed of trout on every visit to the Snowies. And regardless of the weather conditions, the lighting for photography is unequalled anywhere in Australia.
Lake Eucumbene is a 20-minute drive from Cooma and 4? hours from Sydney. You can pitch a tent at Buckenderra Village on the Buckenderra arm of the lake but camping's not allowed around the lake's foreshores, as this is the main water catchment area in the Monaro District. There are plenty of other camping options around Lake Eucumbene at Providence Portal, Anglers Reach, Braemar, Adaminaby and Frying Pan.
One of the best features at Buckenderra Village is the 1500 acres of farmland, which adjoin the property. For a small deposit, visitors can pick up a key to the gate near the stables to gain access to some of the best fishing and 4WDing in the area. There is a labyrinth of tracks throughout the property and most of them lead down to the shores of the lake to secluded beaches, top fishing spots and glorious mountain scenery.
The farm was leased out a couple of years ago and where once it was possible to light a campfire to cook your freshly caught trout, a total fire ban is now enforced. You can still fish, photograph, go for a swim or a spin in the canoe and spend the whole day by the lake - sometimes in complete isolation.
Campfires are still permitted in constructed fireplaces at the campground, provided there is no fire ban. It would be quite easy to become disoriented around the lake at night, so take note of any landmarks or make your way back to camp before dark.
Every year during late spring to early summer, the large rainbow and brown trout head back into the lake from its breeding season in the rivers. Trout go into a feeding frenzy, especially after a warm clear day and a good insect hatch. This is area is a fisho's dream.
Duck Bay is the next bay around from Horseshoe Bay and anyone who doesn't catch a fish there is simply not trying. Because of the steep slope of the land, the water level becomes deep very quickly and the bay is fed by runoff from a small creek, which in turn washes all manner of trout food into the lake.
I have cast my line here on numerous occasions, using mud eyes for bait, to be hooked up instantly with a 1kg trout before I even had time to secure the bail arm on my reel. Depending on the wind conditions, Duck Bay is also great for fly-fishing, especially in the late afternoon.
In the summer between sunset and moonrise the sky and the lake change from orange to fiery red, then pink through to purple as the moon makes its way over the horizon. Around dusk the wind normally drops and the water becomes like glass. The biggest stress of the day is whether to fish or photograph.
Nothing should ever be taken for granted at Buckenderra, as conditions at each of the beaches are different from year to year, depending on the water level of the lake. There is every chance you could get bogged if you're not careful.
Wainui Bay was a well-kept secret years ago, when the only access was by boat. Now that the tracks through the farmland have been opened to guests, it's possible to drive right to the banks of the bay and enjoy some of the best fishing and scenery in the Snowy Mountains. The water is extremely deep and cold which is ideal for fishing but there are also lots of small, secluded sandy beaches, which are perfect for swimming and sunbaking.
The track to Wainui Bay is only about 10km long and for 4WDs only. There are deep ruts and wash-a-ways with bramble bushes growing right up to the track in places. Always leave gates as you find them when driving anywhere at Buckenderra as this is a working sheep and cattle property.
One thing you should always keep in mind when visiting anywhere in the Snowy Mountains is the weather. It can be unpredictable, at any time of the year. A fine, balmy summer's day can change to cold, wet, windy conditions in an instant. The sun burns your skin more easily in the Snowies and you could find yourself changing from suntan cream and swimmers to parka and beanie all in the same day.
Strong winds can make boating quite dangerous so wear a life jacket and keep an eye out for weather changes. You can often see a southerly buster heading up the lake long before it hits, the water turns darker and the surface is covered in whitecaps. There have been quite a few boating fatalities over the years on Lake Eucumbene, so give this stretch of water the respect it deserves. In spring and summer the countryside around is covered in wildflowers. Even though Paterson's curse is classified as a weed, the splash of vibrant purple flowers covering most of the landscape looks magnificent. When conditions are right, wild roses, everlasting daisies and buttercups add to the riot of colours.
read on below advertisement
There's plenty of wildlife in the pristine conditions around Buckenderra. Kangaroos are plentiful (keep a watch out for them if driving at night) and possums, echidnas, wild ducks and lizards are everywhere. We had an echidna curl up and go to sleep behind the front wheel of our car the last time we were fishing down by the lake.
If you are ever down by the lake fishing at night or in the early evening, keep a lookout for native water rats. These furry little creatures are not vermin, in fact they look more like small otters as they swim and dive in the water foraging for food. Keep a close eye on any fish you may have caught, as these cunning creatures will make off with your catch if you're not careful.
Snakes are one hazard you should be aware of, especially in the warmer months. Black snakes are seen near water, but they are not as aggressive as browns and will often take off with fright. Copperheads are sometimes seen around the campground - be aware and watch where you walk, especially in long grass. As a precaution keep your tent zipped up when you're are out.
Bird life around Lake Eucumbene is amazing. Tree creepers, wrens, pardelotes, crimson rosellas, lorikeets, cockatoos, galahs and honeyeaters as well as all types of water birds can be spotted. Avoid camping under one of the huge old gum trees in the campground in summer - the noise from young Galahs at feeding time can be deafening.
Lake Eucumbene is so close to civilization yet so far from the hustle and bustle of everyday life it's easy to feel you're in another world - where the biggest decision you will have to make for the day is what bait to put on the end of you fishing line, or how close to the water to put the deck chair.
SHIMANO PRO TIPS
BROUGHT TO YOU BY MODERN FISHING MAGAZINE
LAKE EUCUMBENE, NSW
? Lake Eucumbene is home to thousands of brown and rainbow trout as well as a few Atlantic salmon.
? Keep an eye out for rainbows cruising for yabbies around sunrise and sunset.
? Brown trout can be found amongst the timber on the western shores.
? Try fly fishing from sunset into the night with a Woolly Bugger pattern for bigger browns.
? If you like trolling, try towing Tasmanian Devils (the lure, not the animal!) around the dam wall or around some of the launching areas such as Buckenderra, Anglers Reach and Old Adaminaby.
Getting there
Buckenderra Village is a 1? hour drive from Canberra along the Monaro Highway via Cooma and a 4? hour drive from Sydney. If driving from Melbourne, it's 54km to Canberra from Yass along the Barton Highway.
Staying there
Buckenderra Holiday Village is fully contained with a minimart, petrol, bait, ice, freezer facilities, picnic areas, boat ramp, camping, caravans, cabins, cottages, restaurant, games room, tennis court and laundry facilities. For details phone freecall 1800 339 461, (02) 6453 7242 or visit www.buckenderra.com.au
Things to do
The most popular activity is fishing but there are heaps of other things to do including, bush walks, sailing, boating (hire available), waterskiing, tennis, 4WDing, birdwatching and photography. The village is set on 100 acres of spectacular Snowy Mountain country, featuring 12km of lake foreshore and 1500 acres of farmland. The farmland can be accessed with a key to the stable gates, available at the office for a small deposit.
Around and about
Buckenderra is an ideal base to explore the magnificent Kosciusko National Park, just a 45-minute drive away via Berridale and Jindabyne. Stop at Jindabyne and enjoy some continental pastries, go mountain bike riding at Thredbo, have a go at whitewater rafting on the Upper Murray. Visit Adaminaby - home of the giant trout, drive to Cabramurra - Australia's highest town, and marvel at the hillsides covered in wild lupins in summer. Visit Yarrangobilly caves, a 1? hour drive away and go for a swim in the thermal pool. Visit Eucumbene Dam, part of the Snowy Mountain Hydro-electricity Scheme. The Cooma Visitor's Centre (1800 636 525, www.visitcooma.com.au) has plenty of info.
Important numbers
Ambulance 13 12 33
NSW road conditions 13 27 01
Cooma Hospital (02) 6452 1333
National Parks Snowy Mountains (02) 6450 5600 www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au
Recommended maps
Hema South East New South Wales 1:600 000 $7:95
Hema Australian Touring Atlas $19:95
Free Cartoscopes Tourist Map Snowy Mountains
Words and photos by Shirley Hayes
The Patch Catch
If you take your 4WD to the Snowies you'll be lured by the magic of Buckenderra and Lake Eucumbene - hook, line and sinker.
The Snowy Mountains in NSW is known as 'The Great Southern Outback'. It's a mecca for anglers, photographers and travellers around the world. Lake Eucumbene and Buckenderra Village with their spectacular 4WDing tracks, top fishing spots, gorgeous campsites and breathtaking scenery is the jewel in the crown.
Buckenderra Village is set on 100 acres of idyllic Snowy Mountain country, which includes over 12km of Lake Eucumbene foreshore. Attractions, apart from the glorious isolation, include angling and photography. Lake Eucumbene is world renowned for its trout fishing. Without exception, we have always caught a feed of trout on every visit to the Snowies. And regardless of the weather conditions, the lighting for photography is unequalled anywhere in Australia.
Lake Eucumbene is a 20-minute drive from Cooma and 4? hours from Sydney. You can pitch a tent at Buckenderra Village on the Buckenderra arm of the lake but camping's not allowed around the lake's foreshores, as this is the main water catchment area in the Monaro District. There are plenty of other camping options around Lake Eucumbene at Providence Portal, Anglers Reach, Braemar, Adaminaby and Frying Pan.
One of the best features at Buckenderra Village is the 1500 acres of farmland, which adjoin the property. For a small deposit, visitors can pick up a key to the gate near the stables to gain access to some of the best fishing and 4WDing in the area. There is a labyrinth of tracks throughout the property and most of them lead down to the shores of the lake to secluded beaches, top fishing spots and glorious mountain scenery.
The farm was leased out a couple of years ago and where once it was possible to light a campfire to cook your freshly caught trout, a total fire ban is now enforced. You can still fish, photograph, go for a swim or a spin in the canoe and spend the whole day by the lake - sometimes in complete isolation.
Campfires are still permitted in constructed fireplaces at the campground, provided there is no fire ban. It would be quite easy to become disoriented around the lake at night, so take note of any landmarks or make your way back to camp before dark.
Every year during late spring to early summer, the large rainbow and brown trout head back into the lake from its breeding season in the rivers. Trout go into a feeding frenzy, especially after a warm clear day and a good insect hatch. This is area is a fisho's dream.
Duck Bay is the next bay around from Horseshoe Bay and anyone who doesn't catch a fish there is simply not trying. Because of the steep slope of the land, the water level becomes deep very quickly and the bay is fed by runoff from a small creek, which in turn washes all manner of trout food into the lake.
I have cast my line here on numerous occasions, using mud eyes for bait, to be hooked up instantly with a 1kg trout before I even had time to secure the bail arm on my reel. Depending on the wind conditions, Duck Bay is also great for fly-fishing, especially in the late afternoon.
In the summer between sunset and moonrise the sky and the lake change from orange to fiery red, then pink through to purple as the moon makes its way over the horizon. Around dusk the wind normally drops and the water becomes like glass. The biggest stress of the day is whether to fish or photograph.
Nothing should ever be taken for granted at Buckenderra, as conditions at each of the beaches are different from year to year, depending on the water level of the lake. There is every chance you could get bogged if you're not careful.
Wainui Bay was a well-kept secret years ago, when the only access was by boat. Now that the tracks through the farmland have been opened to guests, it's possible to drive right to the banks of the bay and enjoy some of the best fishing and scenery in the Snowy Mountains. The water is extremely deep and cold which is ideal for fishing but there are also lots of small, secluded sandy beaches, which are perfect for swimming and sunbaking.
The track to Wainui Bay is only about 10km long and for 4WDs only. There are deep ruts and wash-a-ways with bramble bushes growing right up to the track in places. Always leave gates as you find them when driving anywhere at Buckenderra as this is a working sheep and cattle property.
One thing you should always keep in mind when visiting anywhere in the Snowy Mountains is the weather. It can be unpredictable, at any time of the year. A fine, balmy summer's day can change to cold, wet, windy conditions in an instant. The sun burns your skin more easily in the Snowies and you could find yourself changing from suntan cream and swimmers to parka and beanie all in the same day.
Strong winds can make boating quite dangerous so wear a life jacket and keep an eye out for weather changes. You can often see a southerly buster heading up the lake long before it hits, the water turns darker and the surface is covered in whitecaps. There have been quite a few boating fatalities over the years on Lake Eucumbene, so give this stretch of water the respect it deserves. In spring and summer the countryside around is covered in wildflowers. Even though Paterson's curse is classified as a weed, the splash of vibrant purple flowers covering most of the landscape looks magnificent. When conditions are right, wild roses, everlasting daisies and buttercups add to the riot of colours.
read on below advertisement
There's plenty of wildlife in the pristine conditions around Buckenderra. Kangaroos are plentiful (keep a watch out for them if driving at night) and possums, echidnas, wild ducks and lizards are everywhere. We had an echidna curl up and go to sleep behind the front wheel of our car the last time we were fishing down by the lake.
If you are ever down by the lake fishing at night or in the early evening, keep a lookout for native water rats. These furry little creatures are not vermin, in fact they look more like small otters as they swim and dive in the water foraging for food. Keep a close eye on any fish you may have caught, as these cunning creatures will make off with your catch if you're not careful.
Snakes are one hazard you should be aware of, especially in the warmer months. Black snakes are seen near water, but they are not as aggressive as browns and will often take off with fright. Copperheads are sometimes seen around the campground - be aware and watch where you walk, especially in long grass. As a precaution keep your tent zipped up when you're are out.
Bird life around Lake Eucumbene is amazing. Tree creepers, wrens, pardelotes, crimson rosellas, lorikeets, cockatoos, galahs and honeyeaters as well as all types of water birds can be spotted. Avoid camping under one of the huge old gum trees in the campground in summer - the noise from young Galahs at feeding time can be deafening.
Lake Eucumbene is so close to civilization yet so far from the hustle and bustle of everyday life it's easy to feel you're in another world - where the biggest decision you will have to make for the day is what bait to put on the end of you fishing line, or how close to the water to put the deck chair.
SHIMANO PRO TIPS
BROUGHT TO YOU BY MODERN FISHING MAGAZINE
LAKE EUCUMBENE, NSW
? Lake Eucumbene is home to thousands of brown and rainbow trout as well as a few Atlantic salmon.
? Keep an eye out for rainbows cruising for yabbies around sunrise and sunset.
? Brown trout can be found amongst the timber on the western shores.
? Try fly fishing from sunset into the night with a Woolly Bugger pattern for bigger browns.
? If you like trolling, try towing Tasmanian Devils (the lure, not the animal!) around the dam wall or around some of the launching areas such as Buckenderra, Anglers Reach and Old Adaminaby.
Getting there
Buckenderra Village is a 1? hour drive from Canberra along the Monaro Highway via Cooma and a 4? hour drive from Sydney. If driving from Melbourne, it's 54km to Canberra from Yass along the Barton Highway.
Staying there
Buckenderra Holiday Village is fully contained with a minimart, petrol, bait, ice, freezer facilities, picnic areas, boat ramp, camping, caravans, cabins, cottages, restaurant, games room, tennis court and laundry facilities. For details phone freecall 1800 339 461, (02) 6453 7242 or visit www.buckenderra.com.au
Things to do
The most popular activity is fishing but there are heaps of other things to do including, bush walks, sailing, boating (hire available), waterskiing, tennis, 4WDing, birdwatching and photography. The village is set on 100 acres of spectacular Snowy Mountain country, featuring 12km of lake foreshore and 1500 acres of farmland. The farmland can be accessed with a key to the stable gates, available at the office for a small deposit.
Around and about
Buckenderra is an ideal base to explore the magnificent Kosciusko National Park, just a 45-minute drive away via Berridale and Jindabyne. Stop at Jindabyne and enjoy some continental pastries, go mountain bike riding at Thredbo, have a go at whitewater rafting on the Upper Murray. Visit Adaminaby - home of the giant trout, drive to Cabramurra - Australia's highest town, and marvel at the hillsides covered in wild lupins in summer. Visit Yarrangobilly caves, a 1? hour drive away and go for a swim in the thermal pool. Visit Eucumbene Dam, part of the Snowy Mountain Hydro-electricity Scheme. The Cooma Visitor's Centre (1800 636 525, www.visitcooma.com.au) has plenty of info.
Important numbers
Ambulance 13 12 33
NSW road conditions 13 27 01
Cooma Hospital (02) 6452 1333
National Parks Snowy Mountains (02) 6450 5600 www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au
Recommended maps
Hema South East New South Wales 1:600 000 $7:95
Hema Australian Touring Atlas $19:95
Free Cartoscopes Tourist Map Snowy Mountains
