Destinations > Canning Stock Route, Part 2

Back on the CSR and as you leave the Breadon Hills you will pass the Twin Heads, another fascinating landform which depicts the age of the surrounding country in a way that makes you gasp. This is an ancient land that has been here since time began, or so it seems. Carnegie and his men, Breadon and Massie would have walked past those same Twin Heads and seen them just as you see them today.

Canning passed this way too and dug Well 48 just to the west of Breadon Hills. It is about a kilometre off to your left as you pass this magnificent range of hills, all that remains now is a pile of rusting drums. Canning also used the hills as a marker where he turned his stock route to the east for a short period. Well 49 is found on this eastern route and was recently restored so should have good supply of water. A short distance along this dusty, corrugated road you come to a warning sign of the dangers of travelling the CSR. It marks the northern easy accessible section of the route and it is about now that you realise that your journey up the most remote stock route in the world is coming to an end. There is a nice shaded campsite just past this notice as well. But a little further to the east you come to a track on your right which leads to Well 50. Here there are level campsites with trees providing some shade and wind protection. Well 50 is in ruin but you can follow the track beyond the well for a further 4km and then take a short walk up the dry creek bed to Culvida Soak, which may have water.

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The track has improved markedly now and resembles a road again. Well 51 has a signpost naming it Weriaddo. In 2002 when we visited this well it was surrounded by water following the flooding rains of the previous wet season. In 2005 it was very dry. This marks the last of the wells sunk by Canning as the remainder of the stock route follows closely beside Lake Gregory where there are various natural soaks. There are also several side tracks which are flood bypass routes which are utilised when the Lake Gregory system is carrying water.

There is nice camping at a location known as Nyarna Lake Stretch on Sturt Creek, which flows into Lake Gregory. Permits are required to camp here, contact the Mindibungu Aboriginal community on (08) 9168 8988. The route northwards passes through some gates, always leave them as found. You will see the Aboriginal community of Bililuna off to your right where fuel is available if needed. This will be your first sign of habitation since Well 33 several days previous. Shortly after you will join the Tanami Track and your journey up the original CSR has concluded. Canning's stock route actually started from Old Halls Creek and followed a route south to the Lake Gregory water system. The Tanami Track, although unsealed is like a highway as it heads to Halls Creek, but a visit to Wolfe Creek Crater not far from Bililuna is a must-do item. There is camping permitted here also but it is short on shade. Halls Creek has all the usual food and mechanical services and Caravan Park facilities.

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