Destinations > Off The Beaten Track

Ceduna is a major centre, the start point for those heading west across the notorious Nullarbor Plain. But it also offers the 4WDer the opportunity to truly escape the hoards. Heading west of town and just past the eastbound quarantine checkpoint there is a turn off to Davenport Creek and Denial Bay. Pick up a local map at the Tourist Information Centre in Ceduna and make sure you stock up with all your food and water needs. Once you cross the quarantine line, there is no coming back without losing your fresh food.

The peninsular that is Davenport Creek is actually owned by a private community, which graciously allows access to the amazing dune area and beach. French explorer, Nicholas Baudin first identified Davenport Creek in 1802, but it wasn't until 1858 that Bloomfield Douglas named the inlet after the Honourable Samuel Davenport. It has remained much the same since, and is a haven for fishing in the Mangrove-lined waters of the inlet. Incidentally these are the western-most mangroves found in South Australia.

As you approach the inlet on the gravel road you will find numerous signs advising you of ownership of the land and what you can and cannot do. Heed this advice to ensure the area remains open. Before the main car park and information signage area there is a track that leads through the dunes and onto the beach. It is absolutely essential that you drop your tyre pressures to at least 18psi per tyre before venturing onto the beach. If you take the first access road onto the beach you will soon find the crashing surf and a long, long stretch of soft sand towards Point Peter. As you head along the beach be aware of large clumps of seaweed that can accumulate under the 4WD and create a fire hazard or even bog you in a smelly, rotting, lice-infected morass, yep steer clear of it if you can.

read on below advertisement



If you were to continue to head up the gravel road rather than heading straight to the beach you will find the car park area and info shelter, stop here and drop your tyre pressures. From here the road continues on with sand dunes on your right and the mangroves of the inlet on your left. Follow the clearly identified wheel tracks through the sand and you emerge in a huge sand dune area. You are seemingly surrounded by giant sand dunes, provided you are not driving over vegetation, you could explore these dunes to your heart's content but be wary of sudden drop offs and very soft patches.

There are nearly always tracks ahead of you and if you follow these to your left and up and over the giant dunes they lead to an ideal campsite by the waters of the inlet. This spot is popular with the local fishermen so expect some company. No matter where you camp, make sure that you head down to the beach at sunset. With the east-west aspect of the beach you are guaranteed a superb red sunset reflecting off the waves and wet sand, making this a photographer's paradise.

A drive to the very end of Point Peter is a must do, but be wary it involves some quite tricky sand dune driving, and the close woody vegetation will almost certainly result in some duco scratching. But the views from the rocky headland both east to Ceduna and west back down the long beach are exceptional. There is even a quiet bay with unusual rounded granite rocks covered in red lichen, not dissimilar to those found in the Bay of Fires in Tasmania. Whilst I was here in September 2008 I spotted whales, dolphins and plenty of cormorants.

next page »

 

« go back