Destinations > Canning Stock Route, Part 2

It's not long and you are back into battling soft sand dunes, in fact some of these are as tough as you have encountered and several attempts may be needed. The track will have severe corrugations on the run up the dunes and moguls spaced on opposite wheels causing the 4WD to rock violently from side to side. Make sure everything is well tied down both inside and out, I have seen side windows smashed by loose items inside the rig on these dunes.

Well 26 has good water and is easily brought to the surface, there is also a memorial here, which was established to mark the 75th anniversary of Canning's epic construction. A replica water tank carried by the camels is part of the memorial.

The Slate Range is 16km past Well 26 and although you are now travelling through rocky country once again take care, as tyre damage is possible. One of my best sunset camps was at the base of the Slate Range. We cursed the rock-hard ground that would not accept a tent peg but the cliff face above us glowed an incredible red as the sun set and made this camp a memorable one.

After Slate Range you will pass Helen Hill which provides good views from its peak and a side track to Separation Well which gained its name when Charles Wells and George Jones, members of the Calvert Expedition, separated from the main party and later perished. This is a timely reminder that this is a harsh land and does not show mercy to any ill prepared explorers, past and present.

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Your next opportunity for a deviation from the CSR comes 31km beyond Well 27 with a turn-off to Thring Rock. This overgrown track leads to the base of another rocky outcrop which if climbed provides another opportunity to gaze upon the great vastness of the Gibson Desert. But for something different and in the opposite direction, down not up, you should drop into Mujingerra Cave just past Well 30. Actually, this may not be such a great idea as the cave is renowned for hoarding some rather venomous snakes and since it collapsed a few years ago access is quite difficult with a short abseil to its base.

Nothing can really prepare you for the next stretch of track to Well 33. It contains some of the worst corrugations known to man and on one journey along this horror stretch we destroyed no less than five good aftermarket shock absorbers in our party. Well 33 is located near the Aboriginal community of Kunawarritji where you can obtain fuel and some basic supplies and use their grassed camp ground for a small fee.

Just near the turn-off to the community is what some believe is the most isolated and most expensive telephone booth in Australia, do not rely on it, carry your own satellite telephone. The track off to the east is Jenkins Track and leads to the Gary Junction Road and eventually Alice Springs. It's in good condition compared to the CSR.

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