It is a further 29km along the good gravel road before you come to the first signpost declaring the Canning Stock Route. Accompanied by dire warnings on remote travel and the lack of services, this right turn heralds the true CSR track. The bushes immediately close in on your heavily laden vehicle with the taller bushes crowding over the roof rack, it's time to hoist your red flag on your tallest aerial to make sure you are spotted by oncoming traffic.
A short distance from here you will come to yet more ruins - Well 2. After the obligatory inspection, photos and reading Ronele and Eric Gard's The Canning Stock Route - your best guide for the CSR - you will begin to marvel at the difficulties of digging these wells anywhere from 16 feet to 105 feet (5m-32m) into the earth's crust. Remember this was done in 1908 by hand with rudimentary tools and all the timber slabs lining the wells had to be cut by hand and carted to the well sites.
The track is firm and presents no problems other than being aware of minor ruts and washouts and the occasional sharp stone. It does not follow a straight course but meanders between shrubs and scratchy trees limiting vision as they crowd the track. The ground is a rich red as is the ever-present dust.
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The next well is number 2A, built after Canning's original 1908 expedition; you realise that there are a lot more wells to see than the original 51. Well 2A is also known as The Granites and its walls are constructed from the rock in which the well was sunk. No wonder Canning didn't dig a well here with the first well sinking party.
Well 3 is just 70km from that good road, which is now a fading memory and presents you with an ideal campsite amongst taller trees with some shade and a fully restored well where you should find good water (always boil all water obtained from the wells before use). By now you will have noted that many of the wells are found a short distance off the main CSR track, and whilst they are not always signposted it is obvious that the track is likely to lead to a well or point of interest, so take your time and explore them.
The track conditions are good, but treacherous, the hard packed road is slightly corrugated and can lead to over enthusiastic driving. The occasional hidden rut or dry creek bed around the next blind corner is waiting to claim another victim. Be mindful of the weight you are carrying, with excessive amounts of fuel and water on board plus all food for at least 20 days, your 4WD will never have weighed so much previously. Slow down!
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