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Destinations > The Menindee Lakes
The Menindee Lakes
Issue: November 2005
Words by Mathew Roberts
The Kinchega National Park, about 100km south of Broken Hill, is like an oasis in the
middle of the desert. Although located in the arid plains of NSW it is surrounded by very fertile land, thanks to the many lakes fed by the Darling River and the dam constructed in the '60s. However as the drought continues to hang over the rural sector, the lakes and rivers are beginning to feel the effect too. On our way to Kinchega National Park, the clouds closed over, and we got some rain. "Not enough", we were constantly being told, but some nonetheless.
The roads were excellent, so a little water made them sticky, but still good. We passed a two-wheeler, and for the last 50km of the trip we looked over the fish tailing trail he left. You could tell we were in cotton country from the raw cotton waste strewn all along the verges, and the salt patches occasionally rising through the road.
Pulled into Menindee in the mid-afternoon leaves enough time to whip up to Pamamaroo, and Wetherell, the two beautiful lakes to the north of Kinchega National Park. The Darling has been dammed here to provide a permanent water supply for Broken Hill and the surrounds, and Lake Wetherell is the result. An intricate system of weirs and dams feed the ephemeral lakes down stream, designed to provide water storage for the township, and the thirsty work of mining at Broken Hill. Not far from the main weir is the site of one of Burke and Wills' camps. The base camp party spent three months over the Christmas of 1860 here while Burke, Wills and the advance party went up to Cooper Creek, and then on to the Gulf and back. It's now a lovely picnic and camping area with a few information signs. The area must have held an attraction for at least some of the ill-fated team. Having returned from Cooper Creek, one of the Afghan camel drivers who had manned the camp at the 'Dig Tree', Dost Mahomet, settled in Menindee and worked at the local bakery. He was buried just to the north of the town at the site where he said his daily prayers, and the grave has been marked and renovated several times. He clearly made an impact to be so well remembered.
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On the whole, the roads in Kinchega National park are very well looked after. They are all dirt, but well graded; sandy in patches. It was only occasionally that the loose surface formed the dreaded corrugations. The appropriately named River Road runs along the Darling, and is dotted with campsites. Take your time - don't just stop at the first few sites. Being the most popular area, there is almost no firewood around here but there's plenty just a few short kilometres along this beautiful drive. The sites each have a woodfire barbecue, and are nestled under the huge gums, the milky white Darling flowing by. There are eagles and scores of corellas to be seen.
Even though there was a fair flow in the Darling at the time of our visit, it was obvious that the river was well down on its normal levels. The banks looked like levees. But it makes a very pretty place to be, snaking along through the park. There are many places where the river twists so much, it almost turns back on itself.
Driving along River Road, we spied a sign in a tree showing the high water mark of the 1976 flood. Not only was it two and a half metres off the ground, it was nowhere near the river. It was very difficult to imagine so much water here.
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Words by Mathew Roberts
The Kinchega National Park, about 100km south of Broken Hill, is like an oasis in the
middle of the desert. Although located in the arid plains of NSW it is surrounded by very fertile land, thanks to the many lakes fed by the Darling River and the dam constructed in the '60s. However as the drought continues to hang over the rural sector, the lakes and rivers are beginning to feel the effect too. On our way to Kinchega National Park, the clouds closed over, and we got some rain. "Not enough", we were constantly being told, but some nonetheless.
The roads were excellent, so a little water made them sticky, but still good. We passed a two-wheeler, and for the last 50km of the trip we looked over the fish tailing trail he left. You could tell we were in cotton country from the raw cotton waste strewn all along the verges, and the salt patches occasionally rising through the road.
Pulled into Menindee in the mid-afternoon leaves enough time to whip up to Pamamaroo, and Wetherell, the two beautiful lakes to the north of Kinchega National Park. The Darling has been dammed here to provide a permanent water supply for Broken Hill and the surrounds, and Lake Wetherell is the result. An intricate system of weirs and dams feed the ephemeral lakes down stream, designed to provide water storage for the township, and the thirsty work of mining at Broken Hill. Not far from the main weir is the site of one of Burke and Wills' camps. The base camp party spent three months over the Christmas of 1860 here while Burke, Wills and the advance party went up to Cooper Creek, and then on to the Gulf and back. It's now a lovely picnic and camping area with a few information signs. The area must have held an attraction for at least some of the ill-fated team. Having returned from Cooper Creek, one of the Afghan camel drivers who had manned the camp at the 'Dig Tree', Dost Mahomet, settled in Menindee and worked at the local bakery. He was buried just to the north of the town at the site where he said his daily prayers, and the grave has been marked and renovated several times. He clearly made an impact to be so well remembered.
read on below advertisement
On the whole, the roads in Kinchega National park are very well looked after. They are all dirt, but well graded; sandy in patches. It was only occasionally that the loose surface formed the dreaded corrugations. The appropriately named River Road runs along the Darling, and is dotted with campsites. Take your time - don't just stop at the first few sites. Being the most popular area, there is almost no firewood around here but there's plenty just a few short kilometres along this beautiful drive. The sites each have a woodfire barbecue, and are nestled under the huge gums, the milky white Darling flowing by. There are eagles and scores of corellas to be seen.
Even though there was a fair flow in the Darling at the time of our visit, it was obvious that the river was well down on its normal levels. The banks looked like levees. But it makes a very pretty place to be, snaking along through the park. There are many places where the river twists so much, it almost turns back on itself.
Driving along River Road, we spied a sign in a tree showing the high water mark of the 1976 flood. Not only was it two and a half metres off the ground, it was nowhere near the river. It was very difficult to imagine so much water here.
next page »
