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Destinations > Loop the Loop
Loop the Loop
Issue: August 2007
Words and photos Gary Monahan
Most 4WD travellers who reach the remote Mount Dare Hotel in the far north of South Australia have the Simpson Desert on their mind. They are either savouring the memories of their completed desert crossing or contemplating the journey ahead, across the sea of red dunes to the east. But very few are aware of the land to the west of Mount Dare that is full of gibber plains, tree lined creeks and stunning waterholes.
This region is alive with the Outback history of explorers, bullockies, pastoralists, the Overland Telegraph Line and the old Ghan railway. And, in a bizarre twist, there's even a brush with the poet Lord Byron.
You can explore this country on a series of tracks we have christened the Mount Dare Loop. What makes this journey appealing is that you can choose your own pace - it is possible to do the loop in a long day or take a couple of days and really soak up the history at your feet. And you can join or leave the loop at any point.
If you want to follow these notes that follow the loop clockwise, then take the track south from the Mount Dare Hotel towards Dalhousie Springs. After 33 kilometres, turn right at the intersection that is signposted to Federal, an early Outback homestead. After crossing some small dunes and claypans, the track winds along a heavily treed creek.
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At just over five kilometres from the intersection, and past the Federal Waterhole sign, look on the right for a tall post with a pulley placed strategically on top, some metres off the track. A large Coolabah that stands nearby guards the homestead site. If you see the old horse yards, do a u-turn because you have gone too far.
While there is nothing left standing of Federal, the red sand at your feet presents an enormous mosaic created by rows upon rows of partially buried, upside down old beer bottles. By using your imagination, it's easy to examine the rows of bottles and work out the outline of the old homestead and all the surrounding extensive garden beds. But if your imagination isn't up to scratch, let R. B. Plowman, who wrote The Man from Oodnadatta, describe the scene for you: "...a small cottage homestead literally embowered in creepers, trees and shrubs. A wealth of flowers, grape and cucumber vines, useful and ornamental creepers, extensive lawns, vegetables in profusion, and fruit- trees of many kinds, throve and made a wonderful scene."
No wonder Federal was described as 'the talk of Central Australia'.
Back on the track, and after passing Hughes Waterhole, you enter an open
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Words and photos Gary Monahan
Most 4WD travellers who reach the remote Mount Dare Hotel in the far north of South Australia have the Simpson Desert on their mind. They are either savouring the memories of their completed desert crossing or contemplating the journey ahead, across the sea of red dunes to the east. But very few are aware of the land to the west of Mount Dare that is full of gibber plains, tree lined creeks and stunning waterholes.
This region is alive with the Outback history of explorers, bullockies, pastoralists, the Overland Telegraph Line and the old Ghan railway. And, in a bizarre twist, there's even a brush with the poet Lord Byron.
You can explore this country on a series of tracks we have christened the Mount Dare Loop. What makes this journey appealing is that you can choose your own pace - it is possible to do the loop in a long day or take a couple of days and really soak up the history at your feet. And you can join or leave the loop at any point.
If you want to follow these notes that follow the loop clockwise, then take the track south from the Mount Dare Hotel towards Dalhousie Springs. After 33 kilometres, turn right at the intersection that is signposted to Federal, an early Outback homestead. After crossing some small dunes and claypans, the track winds along a heavily treed creek.
read on below advertisement
At just over five kilometres from the intersection, and past the Federal Waterhole sign, look on the right for a tall post with a pulley placed strategically on top, some metres off the track. A large Coolabah that stands nearby guards the homestead site. If you see the old horse yards, do a u-turn because you have gone too far.
While there is nothing left standing of Federal, the red sand at your feet presents an enormous mosaic created by rows upon rows of partially buried, upside down old beer bottles. By using your imagination, it's easy to examine the rows of bottles and work out the outline of the old homestead and all the surrounding extensive garden beds. But if your imagination isn't up to scratch, let R. B. Plowman, who wrote The Man from Oodnadatta, describe the scene for you: "...a small cottage homestead literally embowered in creepers, trees and shrubs. A wealth of flowers, grape and cucumber vines, useful and ornamental creepers, extensive lawns, vegetables in profusion, and fruit- trees of many kinds, throve and made a wonderful scene."
No wonder Federal was described as 'the talk of Central Australia'.
Back on the track, and after passing Hughes Waterhole, you enter an open
next page »
