Issue: April 2006
Words and photos by
Vic Widman
Desert Song
In the second part of this Canning Stock Route track Vic Widman tackles the beautiful but deadly Great Sandy Desert.
So far the track on the Canning has been pretty good but now it's going to be a real bumpy affair as we head into the heart of the CSR to face countless corrugations and desert hills. The track slides out of the Durba Hills and joins the CSR as it pushes on its never-ending northward journey. Twenty kilometres on from the Durba Spring track a side track to the left leads to Diebil Spring. The turn-off is signposted and it is a rough one-lane track for approximately 20km to the end of the gully where you need to walk the last 500m over large and small boulders to view the Diebil Spring at the base of a large rock face. There is camping near here too. A little way back down the track a side road leads 4km to a clearing. After spending some time here exploring retrace to the CSR and turn left towards Well 18.
Well 18 is a short distance off the track and usually has good water although I have seen it full of frogs, which may turn you off collecting water. Road conditions continue to be a single lane lined by Spinifex, which at times can be bonnet high or burnt black by recent fires. Wild flowers can be prolific making for an enjoyable drive. You will shortly cross the Tropic of Capricorn but before doing so another side track leads to Onegunyah Rockhole where a little exploring will reveal some more Aboriginal art.
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A plaque marks the point where you cross the Tropic of Capricorn and from now on you should be able to say goodbye to the sub-zero mornings and enjoy much more friendly temperatures. Desert oaks have now made themselves present and their waving fern like bows sigh in the ever present breeze. There are some nice campsites under the oaks and any flat ground can make a good camp.
One of the major barriers on the Canning is Savory Creek and, although it rarely runs deep, if it is you will not progress much further than this point. The track follows the creek line for a few hundred metres before the crossing is found. If there is any water in it be aware that it is salty and may be deep. If it is deep I suggest you avoid crossing it, as having your 4WD inundated with salty water is not a good idea. (Note there is a side track to the west which leads to an alternative crossing if the usual crossing is too deep).
After you cross Savory Creek you will find a track that follows its course for some distance to its mouth where it runs into the huge expanse of Lake Disappointment, this is worth following and observing the immense lake. But be warned, the ground off the side of the narrow firm track can be a bottomless bog and you will become hopelessly stuck to the floor pan if you stray slightly off course. There are no anchor points out here for winching so stay on the firmly packed track.
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