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Destinations > Dunes

Dunes
Dunes
Issue: August 2009

Words and photos by Mark Allen

There's sand, more sand and a whole lot of history at Stockton Beach.

Need a sand fix? Walk, ride a motorbike, horse or camel, surf the dunes on a cardboard box or a dedicated sand board or drive over the huge sand banks in a quad runner, with a tour operator or your own 4WD. Stockton Beach is arguably the ultimate destination to fill your clothes and every bodily orifice with sand. If you can't get your sand adrenalin fix here, you're simply not trying!
Some may say 'there's nothing but sand to see'...well yes and no.
Yes there is plenty of sand, some 32km of adrenalin-generating, wheel-spinning, sand-flicking fun. Located in the Port Stephens region, ranging from Stockton (near Newcastle) in the south to Anna Bay in the north, there are dunes standing more than 20 to 30 full-sized wagons high stacked on top of each other. Perhaps they don't look all that substantial while your driving on the coastal sections and peering west into the huge dunes, but when you're amongst the pure, vegetation-free, shifting sands, they seem positively gigantic and daunting to the point of nerve racking, especially at the peak of every dune as you take your sand-filled boot off the brake at the last second with gentle accelerator pedal to ensure a vertical and safe decent. It's this last second lack-of-vision (other than skywards) that causes hesitation as you just never know how soft, how steep and how far down each dune will be - unless of course you've done the right thing and exited your vehicle first for an eyeball over the edge.
Don't be tempted to play the hero and hit the tops of dunes at speed, you will come unstuck sooner rather than later with potentially horrifying results. Got the jitters yet? Good, but you needn't be too worried as driving Stockton Beach is generally a safe affair providing you take adequate precautions for yourself and all other beach users. Of course, you should carry all relevant recovery gear and preferably travel with at least one other vehicle.
No, it's not just all sand, there are freshwater lakes to swim in, an array of vegetation ranging from sand-securing grasses (spinifex, pigface and bitou bush) to forested areas, World War II history and don't forget to bring a fishing rod for a free feed or your boardies for a swim in the patrolled flag section at the northern end at Birubi Point.

World War II History
There are many theories, folk law and yarns about what really went on along the 32 long kilometres of this beach during the war years. While some of the tank traps (pyramid shaped concrete pillars used to prevent the encroachment of army tanks) are still visible at times amongst the dunes, many have been repositioned at the northern end at the bustling café to border off walkers, parked cars and the myriad of tourer operators. These tank traps in fact lined the whole length of Stockton Beach and into neighbouring farm lands and were intertwined with barbed (or razor) wire to ensure the Japanese didn't invade our shores - remember that Williamtown air base is just a stones throw inland near the Lavis Lane entry, so due caution was exhibited!
Our visit this time saw tank trap number 1465 dated February 25, 1942 found near the café. Considering only a handful are able to be seen at times amongst the dunes, either a lot have gone missing in action or they're still buried in the shifting sands just waiting to be uncovered by a fierce storm or big blow from the heavens.
There are also remnants of the barbed wire fencing back near the forest, within the dunes and on several rows of star pickets that were claimed to run the length of the beach - more war time anti Japanese furniture, that becomes exposed at various times.

WRECKED
The Pasha Bulker kept all eyes glued to the telly recently when she ran aground just south of Stockton Beach at Newcastle; it was successfully refloated and removed. The next most well known ship to hit our shores (literally) is the MV Sygna, a Norwegian bulk carrier, which docked its 53-tonne into the shallows in a wild storm back in 1974. Its decaying wreck stills plays host to many a photographer at the southern end of Stockton Beach.
There have been countless other ships run aground in the general area, of which one can at times be seen during low tide and if the sand has been drawn out from around its remains.
There is also said to be the remains of a wrecked aircraft in the dunes, but unfortunately sand drifts have covered it over in recent years

TIN CITY
Rather than just being for the local fisherman, 'Tin City', as it is affectionately know, was originally conceived due to the high number of shipwrecks happening in the late 1800s. The sheds were host to supplies, provisions and shelter for the seamen of the time.

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Additional shacks were built during the Great Depression for those unfortunate not to be housed in 'town'. They were then removed during World War II to make way for an army camp and then rebuilt for the fishermen at a later date.
The current Tin City is unique and one well worth visiting. Moviegoers may recognise scenes from Mad Max whereby a pub was constructed for the movie.
Currently, the shacks are on a 99-year squatter's lease and can not be rebuilt if destroyed, nor can additional structures be built. They are solar and wind powered and utilise freshwater from the underground water table. A couple of satellite dishes were spotted on this trip, so despite our lacking an internal visit, presumably most mod cons are available inside to cater for the owner fisherman and their mates.

ABORIGINAL EVIDENCE
While travelling amongst the dunes, you'll notice piles of long-ago emptied shells and bones of birds, lizards and small animals. These Middens are the left over's of the Worimi Aboriginal tribes' meals. Stockton Beach was recently handed back to the Worimi people and is co-managed with the NPWS.
It is prohibited to drive over or disturb these Middens, or any other remains that may become uncovered in the sand, so please do keep off them.

FISHING
Paradise for a fisho is selecting from one of the many 'gutters' along a long beach front, seeking out their own fresh bait (pippies and sand worms), casting, retrieving all manor of variety of fish, cooking and eating on the spot while delighting in the natural beauty that is Stockton Beach. There is mile after mile of fishing spots to choose from, which generally makes a secluded spot easy to procure.
If you haven't experienced the massive dune systems of Stockton Beach, treat yourself to at least a day visit in either your own 4WD or one of the many tour operators that are based at the northern end of the beach front, just down from the Café at Birubi Point.
If you're camping on the beach, you can do so within 100m of the high water mark (no extra fees are applicable) and you'll need to supply your own firewood. Caution must be exercised as the wind can pick up during the night and there's not much shelter - even on the lee side of a dune you'll often end up with sand in your food...and most other places of your body, but that's all part of the fun of visiting one of Australia's largest sand masses.

GETTING THERE
Heading north from Sydney, you'll exit the Pacific Highway, to the southern end of Stockton Beach, just a few hundred metres north of the Hexham Bridge (near Newcastle), into Tamago Road after which you'll arrive at the Lavis Lane entry point, which then takes you onto the beach via Macs Track.
Further north, near Anna Bay (just south of Nelson Bay) at Birubi Point, is the northern beach entrance, off Gan Gan Road, then into James Paterson Street - an easier route for the inexperienced as the Lavis Lane route can become quite rutted from traffic with soft patches that'll catch even the experienced at times.

PERMITS
There are two types of permits available for Stockton Beach: a beach vehicle permit (for standard road registered 4WDs and only for one nominated vehicle) and a recreational vehicle area permit (for conditionally registered vehicles - quad bikes, trikes, ATVs and the like). Both permits can be purchased for three days at $10, or 12 months for $30. Pensioners can get the 12-month beach permit for $15.
Speed limits of 40km/h applies and 20km/h within 100m of pedestrians and other vehicles. Pedestrians have right of way at all times.
Permits can be purchased from Birubi Beach Service Station at Anna Bay, Birubi Beach Holiday Park, Tackle Power at Sandgate, Out of Town 4WD at Barnsley, Mobil Service Station at Salt Ash, Port Stevens Visitor Centre at Nelson Bay, Medowie Tyre and Auto Centre at Medowie and the Metro Service Station on Lavis Lane at Williamtown. Alternatively, you can call 02 4984 8200 with credit card details at NPWS Region Office, but you'll need to plan ahead so the pass can be mailed out.

FUEL AND SUPPLIES
Both entrances have service stations for fuel and light refreshments, while the northern entrance has full shopping facilities at Anna Bay. If you should get stuck while driving on Stockton Beach, both Hummer Tours (0428 267 184) and Fenwicks Towing will come to your rescue - at a price!

 

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